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The Grimes problem

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The Grimes problem

Tom Steele | Apr 4, 2001 04:31 PM

Could you'all beLIEVE what William Grimes wrote about Tamarind in today's TIMES? The last line says it all: "After all, this is one cuisine [Indian] that can use all the help it can get."

So much for the cuisines of an entire nation!

This guy is a menace. The lead restaurant critic at the TIMES clearly loathes Indian food, meaning there are undoubtedly other related cuisines he eschews as well. And all that nonsense early in the review about how Indian food doesn't translate well here! I've had some marvelous Indian meals in NYC! And so have a lot of you!

How can anyone trust someone so patently dismissive of an entire cuisine? If, say, Elvis Mitchell suddenly wrote that Fellini never made a good movie, there would be some sort of cultural implosion?

Any food writer needs to be as open-palated as humanly possible. Period.

P.S. I hope his black chicken doesn't come back, or there will be another attenuated article. Once was quite enough.

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