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Restaurants & Bars 6

great meal at citronelle

Alex S | Jun 20, 2004 10:41 PM

I was a bit concerned after reading about b l g's negative experience at Citronelle, but I had a wonderful meal there last night. The vitello tonnato (thin layers of veal and raw tuna in a caper emulsion) and the virtual fettucine - sauteed cuttlefish cut so thinly as to resemble pasta, with corn and crab sauce - were two of the best appetizers I've eaten.

I also thought the foie gras three ways was superb, and the soup/whipped foie gras versions were much more flavorful than I had expected, although the whipped foie gras was a bit overwhelmed by the frisee, as blg noted. The fish in the ceviche were perfect.

The wagyu strip loin and duck were basically perfect preparations of very high quality meat, although the sides were pretty unmemorable.

The desserts were absolutely amazing - probably the best part of the meal. Breakfast at citronelle is worth getting for the brioche alone - I've never had such a delicious sweet piece of bread. The chocolate thing was great too, especially the kit kat bar. My girlfriend thought the sorbet served with the Soleil was the best she'd ever had; I really liked it.

There were a few low notes - I thought the soft shell crab stuffed with crab was more or less what you would expect to pay $15 for at a good Chinese restaurant, and not very awe-inspiring. The brioche-crusted halibut was too dry. And the grilled cheese/mushroom sandwiches served with the hot and cold cappucino were terrible - the bread wasn't crispy at all.

Mark Slater did an excellent job with the wine pairings. Overall a wonderful meal, although I can't compare it with ADNY or the like. Definitely worth the price of admission.

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