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Manhattan

Gramercy Tavern Still Has It

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Gramercy Tavern Still Has It

Dave Feldman | Nov 23, 1998 10:40 PM

GT has to be one of the most pleasing restaurants I've
ever visited. Four of us went Sunday and the meal was
virtually flawless -- no major blunders and some
wonderful dishes -- the fabulous tuna tartare; a
Mediterranean turbot, the best turbot I've ever had
(perfectly cooked); a lemon souffle tart that managed
to be pungent, delicate, sour, rich, and creamy at the
same time.

I thought of Jeremy while I was eating there, and the
oppressiveness he sometimes feels in big restaurants.
GT is large, but by breaking the space down into a
series of small rooms, it FEELS downright cozy.

And the service, to my mind, is the best of any
restaurant in NYC that I've experienced. Waiters and
waitresses are always informed about the food and the
wine, and share their expertise with none of the
portentousness or pretentiousness of so many fancy
restaurants. Even more impressive to me is the
attitude of busboys, coat check personnel, etc. I've
yet to encounter anyone at GT who is less than
attentive and enthusiastic.

And I love the "spicy red" section of the wine list.
Always good finds there at very reasonable prices.
Somehow, GT feels like the most American of all the
American restaurants -- Danny Meyer has found a way to
introduce an American STYLE to the ambiance and
service of a fine restaurant, and the results are
utterly charming and comfortable.

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