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Gou Lou Cheung: Chinese BBQ in central Broward

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Gou Lou Cheung: Chinese BBQ in central Broward

s.m. koppelman | Sep 5, 2003 09:25 AM

One of the strange things about the otherwise swell Hong Kong City BBQ on 441 north of Commercial is that their namesake Chines barbecue is only so-so. It's the other stuff that's really good.

Now maybe a mile or so south, in the small strip adjacent to the one that houses the other HK standby Silver Pond along with that largish Sino-Viet grocery, the little prepared-foods shop and such, there's also a tiny storefront Chinese BBQ takeout. A mainstay of Chinatowns (and Chinese towns), Gou Lou Cheung is the typical narrow little shoebox of a shop, with whole glistening birds and shiny and bumpy slabs of pork hanging on hooks behind glass up front, and a couple of tiny tables towards the back.

They haven't been around that long, and already half the items on the menu are crossed out: eliminated are noodle soups and most of their dim sum, possibly to settle disputes with the Vietnamese pho joint and Silver Pond, each a few doors down. What's left are animals and animal parts, mostly, though they also had trays of sticky rice wrapped in lotus leaves (an acquired taste I still haven't acquired) and what looked like steam buns behind the counter.

Meats include the usual bright red roast pork and its fried "crispy" cousin, whole golden ducks, pale soy-baked chickens, and steam-table bins of chicken feet, pig intestines and other organs and appendages.

In a bit of a departure from the usual, they also have some meats prepared in Vietnamese styles, most obviously a fish-sauced chicken. Whether the owners are from Vietnam or they're simply catering to the substantial Vietnamese contingent in the area, I didn't ask.

Anyhow: everything looks fine, and in the interest of science (science!) I tried a plate of their roast duck over rice. I'm happy to report that the chopped strips of bone-in duck were tender and moist, very meaty, and the skin was crisp and tasty without being chewy. The sweet-salty soy-hoisin sauce poured over it was fine, and the side of steamed chopped Chinese cabbage was its usual bland, faintly garlicky-gingery self without being cooked to death.

It's not going to change the world, but it's a good addition to the area and would be my stop of choice for roast meats in Broward. They're at 4139 SR 7/US 441 in Lauderdale Lakes, between Oakland Park and Commercial. Essentially takeout only, but if you don't mind eating out of styrofoam, there are a couple of little tables for two by the kitchen door.

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