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Boston Area Fusion

Too Much of a Good Thing at Super Fusion Cuisine (Long)

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Too Much of a Good Thing at Super Fusion Cuisine (Long)

GaryK | Feb 16, 2006 02:36 PM

Took my wife and 5 year old chow pup for an early dinner at this Brookline hole in the wall and managed to snag the only large table. After consulting with the chef/owner (formerly from Fugakyu), we ordered three appetizers: the tuna spring roll was cooked tuna in a large spring roll, good but not memorable. The seafood papaya rainbow was another story - a melange of smoked salmon, snow crab and shrimp artfully arranged atop a hockey-puck shaped disc of cooked papaya inside a tempura shell, with light (bland but pleasant) and dark (very spicy) sauces swirled underneath. The owner was quite proud of this baroque combo, with good reason. The tuna ball was a similar construction, a seared slice of tuna atop a ball of tuna tartare atop another disc, this one sort of crunchy, maybe some type of rice cracker or noodle. Also quite good but not as spectacular.

This was already a fair amount of food. I was therefore a little dismayed when my sushi order came out - four pair of the largest nigiri and uni rolls I have ever seen. The problem was each consisted of a six inch slice of fish on top of a one inch tube of rice or a roll of uni that could feed three people (they'd never serve this in Japan). OK hounds, how would you eat them? My solution, admittedly inelegant, was to pick them up with chopsticks and nibble furtively at the ends until something like a normal nigiri emerged (would the chef notice? If so would he disapprove?). Fish quality was very high - the uni and escolar were very creamy in their own ways, hamachi was nice and tangy, toro was gratifyingly fatty, but this sushi veteran felt like a rube trying to down the ungainly monsters. Furthermore, given my extensive consult with the owner, I felt duty bound to finish, despite the fact that my middle-aged tummy was more than satisfied (I still left part of an uni roll). It took me two days to recover from this overindulgence, so be warned when you order; Super Fusion Cuisine means super-sized sushi.

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