Every year there is a new crop of "Northern Italian” restaurants that pop up all over NYC. But it seems like that description is a catch-all that’s used to describe all sorts of different regional styles: Tuscan, Piedmontese, Ligurian, Friulian, etc.
Every now and then a chef appears in NYC who is actually from Emilia-Romanga and he, or she, does a pretty good job of recreating the foods one finds in places like Bologna, Modena, and Parma. Then, after the realities of doing business in NYC settle in, the quality goes down hill.
For example, when Gnocco on 10th St. first opened it was pretty damn good. The owner was from Modena and he brought his native tastes with him. Like the eponymous gnocco frito. Then it got popular, they opened Perbacco on 4th St. and it’s just not as good as it used to be. The same thing happened to Via Emilia on Park Ave. They were fantastic coming out of the gate but when I went back 6 months later it was like the dishwashers were doing the cooking.
So my question to you chowhounds is: Are there any new places out there in the city that seem to be doing a fairly faithful Emilia-Romagnan menu? Things like tortelloni di zucca or cotechino?
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