We made it a mission this time to uncover the best mexican breakfast in Cabo, there are a lot of runner's up. Panchos, Mama's the revamped place in Mar de Cortez all have their merits (but with all due respect....do you see locals eating at any of these?). I can speak just enough Spanish to get by and so I started by asking everyone I could, the taxi drivers, the maids, the security guards at the hotel,s anyone who was native to Mexico where they thought the "mejor desayuno" was in Cabo. Not surprisingly the answers led us away from the hotel strip, but never more than a good walk or taxi cab ride from the beach. So here, my fellow Chowhounders are the top two:
Restaurant Campestre: Any tourist walks in here and you'll still get a few glances...not a "what are you doing here?" look of distain but rather a .."hey check it out a gringo found real food!" followed by a smile...and there a LOT of smiles here...happy Mexicans. Kids, grandparents, cops, all order of locals and the occasional crunchy expat that forgot how to speak English. But don't worry, the efficient staff will scramble and find you one of the translated menus. Nothing fancy in the restaurants courtyard like setting but clean tables, clean kitchen, clean bathrooms, all purified water and ice and, most importantly... g r e a t food...Our favorite here was the classic Juevos con Chorizo..a huge plate of fresh eggs scrambled with fresh mexican sausage, more tortillas that you can eat in a week and fabulous roasted tomato salsa. Order a side of Queso fresco to crumble on top and you are in heaven. (And fellows foodies you KNOW what I mean...not just good...but OMFG good...good like you take that first bite and you look at each other and nod and sigh and just melt-- because yes we are PICKY and we are DISCERNING and we want the BEST and god damn it sometimes you hit it. We both had fresh fruit shakes as well and the total (with generous tip) was $12.00 . This is about a 18 block walk up Hidalgo from the marina or grab a cab. Closed Sunday but open evey other day at 8am..
Tortillaria "El Mexicano"": So if that was an adventure and authentictity level you can handle and you want to up the ante then stay with with me. Now we are going to Anthony Bourdain land, but at least as of this writing...he's hasn't been there yet. Get in a cab or your rental car and once again go North out of town on Hidalgo ...when that hits (hwy to Todos Santos) make a move to get into the right lane...follow this until just before you see the "Soriana" giant grocery store,and take a right here. Now go for approx 1.5 miles - another way to gauge is it you will go through about three of those huge speed bumps ...take this road until it goe down into an arroyo (riverbed) and they climbs back out...one more speed bump and start looking for a BRIGHT yellow bakery on your left ...you cannot miss it...once you see that bakery with or without bread in the window (depending on what time of day you go) get ready to take you next immediate right and park anywhere on the at street. Just to the right tucked in you will behold Tortillaria "El Mexicano"
They are making real corn tortillas...grinding the corn...adding just enough water...kneading by hand...rolling into a little ball...pressing flat and then bam onto the huge hot griddle (comal) - you can get tacos, quesadilla, empanda all with various fillings made right before your eyes. You will see local after local come up just to buy then uncooked tortilla mix so they can take it home. Everything we had here was spine tinglingly good and fresh. Again, bathroom is very clean and premises were as meticulous as you could get.
I hope some are of are adventurous enough to check these out - please report back if you do!
~ Reeve & Debora - Seattle, WA