I acquired a deckle point brisket of Goldin's to try this weekend.
It was a triangular, piece, like a skate wing, about 1" thick, with no upper/lower division. The cost was $27.50 for 2.8 lb on my scale, Foodsaver wrapped.
I simmered the bag for 3 hours in a le Creuset oval dutch oven.
At the same time I simmered a 3.6 lb Dunn's smoked brisket in a Batali dutch oven. The cost of this cut was $18.90. It was well marbled,whereas the Goldin's has no exposed surface.
I tasted both in thin sliceslate Saturday night. The Dunn's was cooked perfectly, and had good flavor. It was unctuous.
The Goldin's had better spicing, even a little smoke, but was too tough to seriously serve, without a machine slicer. There was sinew throughout, and the bottom layer of at was distinctly gristly. I went back to the Dunn's for seconds, and I avoided the Goldin's while still hungry.
I put both aside to reconsider Sunday night.
I added a coating of smoked Spanish paprika to the Dunn's, as it was missing some of the spiciness of Goldin's. I wrapped both in double layers of aluminum foil, and put Goldin's into a 280F oven for an hour; Dunn's into a 280F oven for 25 minutes.
Both were sliced, sandwiched, and received French's Deli mustard.
Dunn's was meltingly tender, with good flavor, and a good hit of smoke and hotness that lasted.
Goldin's was not so tough as before, but still challenging and chewy. The flavor and spicing were superb.
I found it perplexing. Obviously well cured but from a tough old cow.
If it was not so expensive, I would buy another, to prove myself wrong. But it is expensive, hard to get, and apparently inconsistent.
Photo #1 Dunn's in cryovac
Photo #2 Dunn's on rye
Photo#3 Goldin's cut at thickest point
Photo#4 Goldin's on Breadhouse Austrian
For a photo of the gristly bottom of the deckle, see http://www.chow.com/photos/401852