Restaurants & Bars

Florida Korean

Gabose (Korean in Lauderhill, W. Broward)

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Gabose (Korean in Lauderhill, W. Broward)

s.m. koppelman | May 12, 2002 10:58 AM

There isn't a whole lot of Korean food in South Florida. I've been to Japan Hill (also in Lauderhill). It was so-so, and they've stopped serving lunch, and to a somewhat better place on Miami Gardens Dr. in North Miami Beach. I'd be hard-pressed to recommend either, though.

Gabose in Lauderhill, around the 4600 block of N. University (south of Commercial) is pretty darn good. Nothing fancy, no built-in table grills or ventilation hoods that I recall. For barbecue, they bring out portable grills. They've got a mid-sized menu, not too much variety within each genre, but they do at least cover the bases. They've got a couple of boekums, a few of the thin soups, maybe a dozen stews, several bean pancakes, a sausage or two, and a couple of cold naeng myun dishes, among other things.

I had one of the daenjang jigaes with soft tofu. They don't seem to make their own tofu (where do I think I am? Cho Dang Gol on 35th St.?), and they add a few baby shrimp, but the overall taste and textures, clams, squash and all, were plenty good, hitting the right yeasty note. The accompanying panchan (those side-dishes/condiments) were uniformly good and varied, and included nice seaweed that wasn't slimy, crisp, fresh-tasting bean sprouts and mushrooms, good kimchi, and two kinds of marinated dried fish.

Bonus points: I didn't have to ask for the Korean menu. Don't laugh; both other Korean places I've been to here only gave me Japanese menus at first.

Again, not fancy, not avant-garde, but unqualifiedly good based on what I had. Recommended.

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