Although I always thought Fugakyu in Coolidge Corner was overrated, I went there because the food was pretty good, the scene was kind of fun, and it's in my neighborhood. After dinner there last night, I won't be going back. We were seated in a deafening, airless room, and had to wait forty-five minutes for main courses, including a "sashimi deluxe" that could put a more delicate eater off raw fish for months. It consisted of mounds of grotesquely large, jagged chunks of gristly, warm fish. The cooked food that my friends ordered seemed slightly better. But how can you trust a Japanese restaurant that makes such a distasteful mess of something as basic as sashimi?