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Boston Area New Year's Eve

Eat at Arbor, JP b4 it closes after New Year's Eve

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Eat at Arbor, JP b4 it closes after New Year's Eve

Limster | Dec 29, 2005 02:18 AM

Exceptional value, great composition of flavours, good technique in the kitchen and excellent wine list.

Smooth refined hummus, rich nutty flavour rounded with a suave sweep of olive oil.

Firm, supple slices of smoked salmon twisted into rosettes in stands of roasted potato. An ethereal lemon cream, light, aromatic, rounding off the salmon in a cloak of airy flavour hat reaches out to the touch of dill. Sharp arugula and crisp acidic raw onions complete the composition.

Gentle fruitness from fuyu persimmons dress up a generous serving of venison. Rich spinach dotted with chopped onion or shallot, creamy mashed potato, a rich demi-glace.

A wonderful selection of local cheeses, standouts included the Hubbardstan Farms Blue Cow and a ripe rich burgundy-style cheese that eludes me now.

Boozy armagnac soaked prunes, a baritone of fruit, harmonizes with vanilla ice cream.

It saddens me that such a wonderful place like Arbor cannot be sustained and will have to recast itself in a more casual mold. In the last year, we've lost good dishes (chicken liver crostini and tripe at Trattoria Toscano), restaurants (Arbor) and chefs (Carmen Quagliata, formerly at the Vault) to the lack of attention and appreciation. Let's not let that happen in 2006.

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