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Durham

Durham: Vin Rouge

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Durham: Vin Rouge

David A. | May 10, 2005 11:34 AM

I made my first visit to Vin Rouge this weekend. It's my kind of restaurant: simple, unpretentious, designed to be enjoyed rather than wondered at or discussed or written about. It was a pleasure to be able to cut right into my dinner rather than having to figure out a way of toppling a five-inch vertical tower without splashing the inevitable moat of sauce. Grades as follows:

Bread: A-

Onion and goat cheese tart: A
Onion soup: A-

Liver and onions: A
Steak frites: A-
Halibut: A-

Lemon Tart: B+
Tarte Tatin: B+

Coffee: A-

The desserts were not stellar -- I have made far better versions of both at home -- but I would rather eat a pedestrian lemon tart than the world's greatest rhubarb Oreo with blueberry jalapeno salsa and saffron foam (I'm making this up).

In sum, Vin Rouge instantly joins my small pantheon of favorite local restaurants.

David A.

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