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Restaurants & Bars 3

Dorsey's Locker, Oakland

David Boyk | Dec 14, 2005 01:31 PM

Dorsey's Locker is a soul food place in a nondescript building that you can only recognize by the lit-up sign. The friendly waitress sat us down and gave us menus, which are simple and direct. You can basically get chicken, pork chops, snapper, catfish, prawns and oysters. Everything's fried, but some things can come grilled, too. Probably the most exciting thing is how generous they are with sides. With a dinner plate (for instance, 2 pieces of chicken and 2 pieces of fish, $12, or 2 pieces each of every kind of seafood, $16.50, or various other combos and things by themselves, all about $12) you get a good but slightly dry cornbread muffin and 3 sides off the list, which basically includes every side that exists. The rice and gravy was plain but comforting, the yams were sweet and absolutely delicious, the black-eyed peas were smoky and warming (also, have you heard "My Humps," by the Black-Eyed Peas? It's the worst song ever!), and the collard greens were a little muddy. The snapper was a bit bland, as snapper is wont to be, but the chicken was good - probably fried a little too hot - and the catfish was excellent. There's a bar, too, and they had some pretty good jazz, and a guy came out wearing one of the snappiest outfits I've seen - an immaculate suit with a long, dark gray pinstriped coat and blindingly shiny wingtips.

(510) 428-1935
5817 Shattuck Ave
Oakland, CA 94609
Open for lunch and dinner, I think Tues.-Sat.

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