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Our Dinner At Sfoglia.

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Our Dinner At Sfoglia.

RCC | Apr 7, 2006 06:44 AM

Sfoglia at 92nd and Lexington has only been open since, I believe, March 1. Over the course of our dinner, we experienced some obvious glitches that we considered as minor and which can and will be ironed-out with time, and which we feel did not distract from the good offerings that they delivered from the kitchen.

My wife and I started by sharing a primi of nicely-cooked orochiette pasta, with just the right consistency of chewiness, and, true to it's Puglian roots, served in a very good slightly spicy tomato-based sauce with some pieces of fresh but not overly fishy squid.

Our main courses included a fried sturgeon laid on a bed of finely-chopped compote of red beets, leeks and bread crumb. The fish was done quite well with just enough moistness and tenderness on the inside, but which I thought could have been prepared with more of the brownish crust on the outside. It was the bed of beets that I thought stood out in this dish. Our other main course were the boneless porckchops, cooked to the medium-well level that we ordered it to be, wiith just the right amount of crustiness on the outside and with the sufficient moistness and off-white meat color on the inside. The restrained tastiness of the balsamic-based sauce married well with the caramelized sweet ciopollini (sp?) onions that the dish was served with.

Our shared contorti of wild mushroom prepared in a souffle-style was, I thought, proved to be the highlight even with our main courses. In this dish, the crusted parmesan-and-cream-based souffle went very well with the pieces of fresh wild mushrooms.

Finally, for dessert, we decided to split one of the specials, which was the peach torte that also had pieces of cooked lemon rinds at the bottom and topped with 2 scoops of vanilla ice cream. This was a good dessert that had to be ordered in advance as, our server informed us, it is prepared fresh onsite. One thing she failed to mention was that this dessert will be listed as $16 on our final bill.

Having been informed by the person that took my reservation about their BYOB policy due to their lack of (pending) liquor licence, I dug into my stash and brought a surprisingly nice-drinking 1988 Ruffino Riserva Ducale. Although their restaurant description on their menu indicated their adherence to Italian trattoria-style service, including mention of using small flat-bottomed tumbler-type glasses in serving wines, I asked for and were pleasantly provided with stemmed wine glasses. Just a note on their BYOB policy, they charge a corkage of $8 as indicated on their menu "as required by" the use of their glassware (my apologies for the vagueness as I couldn't recall exactly how it was written but it's something along those confusing lines).

Our bill, including 2 capuccinos and excluding taxes and tips, amounted to just over 90 dollars.

Finally, I thought I'd highlight some minor glitches that may be attributable to relative newness of the restaurant - first was an apparent intent by our assigned server to remove fresh and unused drinking glasses that we had asked for from, and was brought over by, another server to use with the bottled sparkling water that we ordered, while leaving our glasses full of iced tap water on our table; and secondly, the somewhat over-bearing, but well-intentioned, approach by our server in asking me if I would like her to pour the wine from our BYO bottle into our glasses, even as we are obviouly and visibly more than halfway through the bottle with me having taken the task of doing the pouring into our glasses.

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