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Manhattan Dinner

Dinner at Le Zinc last Sat.

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Dinner at Le Zinc last Sat.

Deb Van D | Mar 31, 2003 03:29 PM

Undaunted by a rainy visit to NY on Friday, I am back on Saturday see Take Me Out, and not, as it turns out, for all that gratuitous full-frontal, etc. A word in praise of this production, if you will allow me--my face was wide-open-laughing a hundred times in two hours, and I was surrounded by people who were likewise rolling on the floor. I know there is a consensus when strangers want to talk about it in the restroom. Don't know how much longer it will be open; selling at TKTS.

It is raining a little when I leave the theatre, but I only have to hop on the subway and go to Le Zinc on Duane St. in Tribeca. I have worked up a formidable appetite with all that mirth and tear-mopping. I dry off with a martini and peruse the menu, ordering crisp duck wings with black bean and chili sauce, Aunt Fanny's chopped chicken liver and a teriyaki salmon burger with Asian slaw. I take a moment to have instant affection for a restaurant that trusts me with my own pepper grinder (although I do understand why most do not). My small-man-child waiter who is clearly not half my age asks, "Do you want another drink, honey?" Did he just call me honey? I decide that he is being nurturing rather than fresh. I elect to have a glass of a recent favorite, Crozes Hermitage, and embark on the chopped liver which turned out to be the best part of the meal, and too much to finish, alas. I know that I will wake in the middle of the night and be wistful over what I have left. The bread is excellent. The duck wing drumsticks are more fatty, less crispy; well, they are duck, after all, but are best left on their own. The black bean chili sauce is too intense, overwhelming.

My waiter comes back and asks if I "am still enjoying myself." I tell him that I have finished enjoying myself, but that I still have the salmon burger coming. I am finished enjoying myself, too, as it happens, since the salmon is distinctly off. It is served with a mountain of excellent fries, ketchup and an unremarkable red cabbage slaw. A miss.

This is a pleasant, warm and neighborhoody kind of place; I am attacked again by the "I should have ordereds..." and would like to try it again. I wish I had gotten the devilled eggs assortment, the curried onion fritters, the skate or the monkfish...

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