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[DFW] North Main BBQ, Lee's BBQ, Carter's, Walker's


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[DFW] North Main BBQ, Lee's BBQ, Carter's, Walker's

Scott | | Nov 16, 2004 10:28 AM

The barbecue quest continues.

North Main BBQ, in Euless, wasn't great, but was pretty good. Brisket had good flavor, but was on the dry side. Ribs were tough, chewy, and gummy from too much mop sauce, though some pieces had good flavor. But their sausage (from Rudolph's) was well above the Dallas average. The staff were all very warm and friendly. Apart from the sausage, I wouldn't rank it in the top tier for DFW.

Lee's BBQ, in Haslet, seemed promising. It's the only Texas Monthly "top 50" spot in the Metroplex that I hadn't been to. The cuts of brisket we had were abysmal--short on flavor and smoke, and about as dry as I've ever had a piece of brisket. Ribs were a little better, but were tough and not very meaty. Their hot links, however, were very enjoyable. They were coarser than most around here, quite peppery, and sufficiently moist. But for the sausage, I probably wouldn't go back. Those links were good enough that I'm willing to give them another try in the hopes that I caught them on a bad day for ribs and brisket.

From what Chowhound John Clark was telling us earlier in the year, Carter's (whose pit is pictured below) was producing some very good barbecue down on Malcolm X Blvd. But they were closed when I went there. And, from the looks of it, they may be permanently closed. I've tried calling the phone number I have for them and get a message saying it's been disconnected or is no longer in service. Does anyone know if they've closed or relocated? Or do they just keep unusual hours?

Since I was already down in the area, I decided to check out Walker's BBQ, further south on Malcolm X. I found their address in the Yellow Pages, but haven't seen any reviews or heard anything about them, making this my first true shot in the dark. Located in a squat brick house with bars over the windows and a small parking lot, it doesn't look like much. Once you go in, you find yourself in a small waiting room with chairs lining the walls. Two sliding glass windows separate the customers from the order-taker, who's in an office-like room on the other side of the wall. Take out only. The menu on the wall tells you that this is East Texas all the way. Hot links, rib sandwiches, wings, et al. There were many items I wanted to try; but, in the interest of science, I stuck with the basic three: brisket, ribs, and sausage.

Opening the styrofoam carry-out box, then the foil wrapping, released the pleasing aroma of meat, smoke, and sauce (which bathed the meats). I knew by looking at it that the brisket would struggle. Looks weren't deceiving. The lean meat had decent flavor, but lacked moistness and was only moderately smoky (hickory). Good sandwich material, but not strong standing alone. Wanting to save the best for last, and thinking ribs would be Walker's strength, I set into the sausage. I was flabbergasted. This sausage was exceptional. That clean break of tooth through casing, the juiciness, the coarser, meatier texture, the blend of seasonings (with noticeable garlic accent)...I haven't had sausage this good outside of Central Texas. They don't stuff their own. And they won't tell me who the supplier is. But that's okay by me, as long as they can keep getting it from wherever they get it. They could perhaps lay a little more smoke on the links. But, other than that minor quibble, I have no complaints with the sausage. As for the ribs, they weren't quite the revelation the sausage was. But they were still very good. Disciples of the Germanic/Czech incarnation of Texas barbecue might balk at the ribs' tenderness and abundant sauce. But if you're open (as am I) to the black-influenced East Texas style, this is good stuff. Meaty, fall-off-the-bone tender (since every little rib wants to grow up to be a rib sandwich), and with a sweet pork flavor. As with the sausage, the ribs were not quite as smoky as I might like; but they're true to their tradition. Walker's far exceeded my limited expectations. I can't wait to go back for more.

This turned out to be "sausage week." While Walker's stood out as the best, the links at both North Main BBQ and Lee's were well above the DFW average. Apart from the good East Texas ribs at Walker's, no other meat we sampled distinguished itself.

For more details and pictures, see the link below.