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Dave missed this?


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Dave missed this?

Vital Information | Jul 5, 2002 01:56 PM

I've been out and about, but I am highly surprised that DaveH missed this reference in this week's New York Times:

Yes, culinary snobs of the world: Coca-Cola has nuance. And, if you are to believe some of the country's top chefs and take a peek into their pantries, so do Heinz ketchup, Werther's caramels, Hellmann's mayonnaise, Hungry Jack potato flakes and other pedestrian ingredients. You may have even had them in a $30 entree without knowing it.

At Cello, the pancetta-wrapped ahi tuna and foie gras is one of them. The base of the foamy sauce splashed across the plate is Heinz ketchup. Laurent Tourondel, the chef, squeezes it from a plastic bottle into a pan and caramelizes it. The sauce is then built by adding soy sauce, balsamic vinegar and ginger juice. It is thickened with cold butter, whisked in a little at a time.

Mr. Tourondel's ketchup sauce strikes the perfect note for the tuna and foie gras. The ketchup forms a solid backdrop of sweetness, and it is viscous. By the time the ginger juice goes in, the ketchup is impossible to discern.

The whole article is linked (registration required)


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