Superb lamb sweetbreads -- soft and slightly firm, without mushiness, good savoury flavour, sustained but not intense. A rosy fillet of lamb neck was remarkably tender and equally flavourful. A balanced sweetness from a mash of butternut squash (or something similar) and elegant carrots. The plate was glossy with savoury oils (pan juices? lamb fat?) with a darker demi-glace like reduction, might be too oily for some, but I was pretty happy.
Fine fibres of slow cooked rabbit were soft and satiny, bathed in a tomato based sauce, generously meaty with broad and slightly snappy stripes of slippery pappardelle.
A smooth icing on the bakewell tart, beautifully handled sugar over a nutty crumbly tart, nicely cut with a line of jam, the sweetness balanced against a dense and somewhat sticky quenelle of cream.
Excellent cooking from their new(ish) chef in a gastropub setting. Looking forward to trying their house cured hams next.
An older write-up on the previous regime: http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/659986
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