Restaurants & Bars

U.K./Ireland England

Coach and Horses, Farringdon, London

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Restaurants & Bars 3

Coach and Horses, Farringdon, London

limster | Jul 31, 2011 04:56 PM

Superb lamb sweetbreads -- soft and slightly firm, without mushiness, good savoury flavour, sustained but not intense. A rosy fillet of lamb neck was remarkably tender and equally flavourful. A balanced sweetness from a mash of butternut squash (or something similar) and elegant carrots. The plate was glossy with savoury oils (pan juices? lamb fat?) with a darker demi-glace like reduction, might be too oily for some, but I was pretty happy.

Fine fibres of slow cooked rabbit were soft and satiny, bathed in a tomato based sauce, generously meaty with broad and slightly snappy stripes of slippery pappardelle.

A smooth icing on the bakewell tart, beautifully handled sugar over a nutty crumbly tart, nicely cut with a line of jam, the sweetness balanced against a dense and somewhat sticky quenelle of cream.

Excellent cooking from their new(ish) chef in a gastropub setting. Looking forward to trying their house cured hams next.

An older write-up on the previous regime: http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/659986

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