I write for the future. To those in future years who think Christmas in Chinatown is a great idea and do a search on this board to find out which restaurants are open. Well, every restaurant is open, but if you rush to your favorite place at a peak hour assuming you'll get a nice table right away, a big surprise awaits you.
Usually I spend Christmas in Tulsa. My family moved there from New York and I have a lot of friends there. But this year I couldn't make it. Alone on Christmas! I craved crowds, pullulating swarming masses of humanity. And that's what I got in Chinatown. It was quite nice strolling around at 6:30 on a pleasant evening. The streets were packed and there was a definite holiday spirit. But every restaurant, even places normally empty, had lines out the door! Delight 28 is so huge I was sure I'd snag a spot... but they had a wedding reception going on! (That's one couple who will never forget their anniversary!) So I went south and east, toward the fringes, but even that Fujianese restaurant I sometimes go to on Eldridge didn't have an empty seat in the house.
So north I went, on dark dreary Forsyth St, Just before Grand there was a big new banquet place that just opened a few days ago. And they had a table empty! Brightly lit, new, maybe the most elegant Fujianese around -- quite a step up from the dingy soup shop in Good Good Taste. The menu is almost entirely in Chinese, and most things are priced at $15 and up (maybe that's why there were empty tables), although as I was leaving I saw a small supplementary menu with some things priced lower. Anyway, one thing on the main menu that was $12 was a pork belly casserole, so I got it. And then the big clay pot came, and opened to reveal slice after slice of rich fatty pork belly, neatly arranged in a row, swimming in a sumptuously oily brown sauce. It looked so good! And the fat and indulgence helped me get in the Christmas spirit. I ate every bit of it, to the delight of the watching waitresses, who, not used to seeing someone who was not Chinese, stood around watching me eat, bringing spare napkins, toothpicks, whatever they could think of to provide an excuse to get close, observe, say a few words of English learned in a school in China. They made me happy on Christmas, and I think I brought some fun into their lives too.
84 Forsyth Street
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