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Brazilian Grill in Hyannis

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Restaurants & Bars

Brazilian Grill in Hyannis

Alan Divack | Sep 6, 2001 09:37 PM

We spent the past 2 weeks on Cape Cod not far from Hyannis, and had 2 excellent rodiziomeals at Brazilian Grill, a churrasquerria at the West End of Main Street, a block or so West of Sea Street. They opened last Sept., and seem to draw lots of people from the sizable local Brazilian community.

It is a religious experience, provided that your belief system accommodates animal sacrifice. I haven’t eaten rodizio frequently, but this one stood out from the pack. Why?

The selection was large if not encyclopedic, and included pork loin, lamb, chicken and pork sausages, quail, chicken hearts, chicken rolled with pepperoni and cheese (a whole lot better than it sounds), and several cuts of beef – short ribs, top and NY sirloin, rump roast, filet mignon wrapped in bacon, and what they called corned beef but was a brined or marinated brisket, not what we would call corned. The beef filet left me cold, but everything else was good to outstanding. The beef cuts were obviously not prime, and not always super tender, but they all had a deeply beefy flavor and occasionally a satisfying chewiness. Cuts like top sirloin, which I think is just tough and ordinary london broil, were threaded on the skewers with sufficient fat to make up for relatively scanty marbling, and they were marvelous. In contrast to my previous experience, the beef and lamb here were available very rare for those of us who like the meat with it’s "moo" or "baa" still in it (and more done for those who don't). They are not afraid of salting their meats, and well salted grilled flesh has whole new dimensions of flavor that those of us who are concerned with hypertension when we are not on vacation may otherwise miss out on. It was particularly remarkable on the rump roast and the short ribs. I have read that in Latin America, meat is basted with brine during grilling, and at this place we tasted the consequences.

The rodizio, goes for $14.95 and it is a real bargain. It includes a buffet of hot dishes, soups and salads, which would be almost superfluous if some of it were not so good. It is worth noting that the buffet items were better on Saturday than on Thursday. Though they left us cold mid-week, the black beans on Saturday, with all kinds of sausages and barely identifiable pig parts, were excellent. The farofa was unremarkable, but the weekend buffet also had crunchy and garlicky sauteed kale. Many of the grilled meats were also better on Saturday, esp. the roast pork and the rump roast.

They have other things on the menu – one in our party had a salmon dish in a too-strong balsamic vinegar sauce, but the rodizio is definitely the way to go.

We go to the Cape every year, but I find the culinary pickings slim. This place was a real treat.

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