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Bistro Foufou - Traverse City

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Bistro Foufou - Traverse City

jock | Aug 18, 2012 09:00 AM

Wow! Compared to yesterday’s review of BFN this one is a cinch. Much easier to write a good one than a negative. In short Bistro Foufou ROCKS!!

The only negatives I can think of: first - we were referred to as “you guys” once (how petty is that?) second – the wine glasses were even worse than BFN. With an excellent wine list small Libby glasses are inappropriate to say the least. The last may not even be a negative at all but it got really loud as the place filled up.

It is in the space that formerly housed Hanna Bistro. Spiffed up – high ceilings, tables small but not too small, close but not too close, two bar areas – really nice. Only open for less than two weeks, the service was surprisingly good and glitch-free. Pleasant, knowledgeable and efficient sraff. Water glasses filled. Plates not taken until both of us were finished. Wine list is shorter than the one at La Becasse but plenty of good choices and entirely appropriate to the menu and venue. As mentioned above the only real complaint I have is the wine glasses.

Foodwise I would have to say it is the equal of the flagship, La Becasse. That says a lot since LB is our clear favorite in the area. Starters were beef tartare and rillettes. Both as good as any in Paris. For main course my wife had the duck parmentier – confit duck with excellent pureed potatoes – delicious. Even better was my lamb belly. Pork belly you see everywhere - seems to be the mandatory offering these days both here and in Paris. This is the first lamb belly I can recall and I loved it. Served on a bed of Israeli couscous with marcona almonds and raisins.

We still had a third of a bottle of a great Chinon (Couly-Dutheil $40) and the cheese plate that went to the next table looked so good we decided to have one. Good call – three of the nicest cheeses we’ve had outside of France. An absolutely perfect bleu d’auvergne and a hard Basque sheep’s milk cheese with a great texture and nice acid bite. The third was the best of the three, a brie-like goat’s milk cheese that had a creamy texture not found in most chevres. The taste mild but very complex. Served with blue berry jam and onion jam and thin toast slices.

Dessert was a flan that disappeared way too quickly.

We made a reservation for next week on the way out – ‘nuff said.

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