The article is unfortunately for subscriber only. It is worth the trip to find a print copy and read this article word for delicious word. Here is the link:
The story came about when Bill Buford was asked to work with Daniel Boulud to recreate some classic French dishes and then write about it. The dishes are: chartreuse, Coubiliac, and duck a la presse. Buford's way with words came in handy and conveyed the experience nicely. there are some excellent historical perspective and the dishes sounded stupendous.
It is the July 29th 2013 issue.