I was invited on a spur-of-the-moment lunch trip to Hunt's Point, in the Bronx. "Fantastic barbecue!", I was told. "The best pulled pork sandwich!", I was told. I was also informed that the "restaurant" doubles as an auto body shop. This I had to see, and try for myself. So we went, and boy, am I glad that we did. Mo Gridder's is actually a BBQ trailer parked in a small corner parking lot at an auto body shop, in the middle of a busy intersection off Hunt's Point Ave. I stepped out of my friends' car and the smell alone told me I had made the right decision in coming... We cued up at the window and chose among offerings including the aforementioned pulled pork, brisket, pulled chicken, and ribs (most offered as platters, some also as sandwiches). Side order options included corn bread, coleslaw, rice, beans, and macaroni and cheese. I don't know how the crew inside that tiny truck doesn't pass out from the heat-- between the huge smoker/pit in the back, the steaming griddle inside, and the blazing sun outside, it was a little tough just to be standing outside waiting (not to mention the occasional fumes and noise from cars added to the mix). There are two options for seating--it's true that the main dining area, or "customer lounge", is also the auto body office and waiting area. I would choose to sit there in winter, when outdoors becomes unfeasible (they are open year-round). We chose to sit outside today, at one of the two large picnic tables bordering the Bruckner Expressway (no kidding). First, let me suggest that you skip the coolers of soda and water below the counter, and order the homemade lemonade. It is delicious, lemony, sweet (very), and the perfect accompaniment to what follows. We had a rather long wait for the food, but well worth it. My pulled pork sandwich was, in a word, perfect. Juicy, meaty, just the right amount of fat, and with some of the most deliciously thick barbecue sauce I have ever tasted (not too sweet, slightly peppery). The bun was also superbly fresh. Coleslaw was crunchy, creamy and refreshing. And then there were the ribs-- the best I've ever had. Let me be the first to say that I am no BBQ expert- I simply love to eat it. However, everyone else at the place (die-hard Kansas City bbq fans among them) looked to be somewhere between excited and thrilled with their food, including the cop in the patrol car who pulled up and jokingly ordered a sandwich over his loudspeaker. These ribs were meaty, tender, wet, sweet, and spicy, with the slightest glazed crust around the edges. Not overly rubbed or sauced, the owner told us that he triple-smokes them with a variety of woods to achieve a truly unique flavor. I probably could have kept on eating them to the point of repentance, but I did not. I know I will be back.
I am editing this to add their rather odd hours: 10-5 on Mon. and Tues.; open 'til 8 PM on Wed., Thurs., and Fri.; closes early on Sat. at 2:30; closed Sun. Prices run from a $3.50 hamburger (though I didn't see anyone order anything other than bbq) to the $14.95 three meat combo platter. A pulled pork sandwich with a pickle and one side is $6.95.