Restaurants & Bars

Manhattan

batalli-land update

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Restaurants & Bars

batalli-land update

jasmurph | Dec 17, 2002 08:04 AM

I had dinner last night at Lupa with 2 other people, and after several visits there and to the other parts of Batalli-land, I've decided Lupa is my hands down favorite. I think the food is every bit as good as it is at Babbo and for a good deal less cash. Everything last night was great--the ricotta gnocchi (perfect little pillows of cheesy goodness--and I don't like gnochi), the parpadelle [sp?] with a vennison ragu (I love what they do with a brown butter sauce at this place), the meat plate for the antipasti (god, that headcheese is good, and this is the only place I know where the mortadella doesn't taste like bologna) balanced by some olives and pickeled veggies, and my oxtail ( a brilliant bowlful of little bundles of oxtail, carrot, raisin, and i think cabbage, spread round the dish like little fireworks of meaty goodness)--but the real revelation of the night was the pork shin, an incredible combination of mildly slaty meat, crispy sweet skin, and, finally and most importantly, a thick layer of creamy fat. The fat was, and i know this sounds a little gross, like custard in texture, but MAN was it good. The only disappointment--and it's the first disappointment I've had at Lupa--was my fiancee's sea bass. It was slightly overcooked, and as a result did not absorb enough of the flavors of the sauce.

Finally, I overheard the bartender say that the new restaurant is going to open Jan. 8. I can only guess this is the pizza joint.

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