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Baltimore: Mostly Misses at True in Fells Point

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Baltimore: Mostly Misses at True in Fells Point

mazzer | Jun 13, 2005 01:37 PM

Went to True in the basement in the Admiral Fell Inn on Saturday night, and overall the meal fell considerably short of expectations.

Started off with the "Warm Crab & Brie," which was very good if not distinguised; I fault ourselves for not trying something more adventurous. The "London Broil Roulades" were good, but exhibited little evidence of the promised "Amish Country raw milk cheddar cheese." The beef itself was also overcooked.

I was looking forward to the "Maine Lobster Bisque," as someone on this board had recommended it; sadly, they had already run out at 8pm. (This was a bit of a recurring theme, as they were also out of several wines--by the bottle--that we attempted to order.)

We had the "Seafood Ragout" and one of the evening's specials, a red snapper over a sort of grits infused with goat cheese (can't remember the exact name). The seafood was well-prepared, but the tomato and fennel "ragout" it sat in was unexceptional; any flavor it had was overpowered by excessive salt.

The snapper was a highlight--although with each bite of the goat cheese "grits," I was reminded a similar, sublime side of cheddar grits we'd had recently at Peter's Inn. The rest of the meal I couldn't shake the feeling that we should have dined there instead.

Dessert was a chocolate volcano with a ganache filling. No complaints here, although at this restaurant's price level I was disappointed not to see a choice of dessert wines.

Service was rushed when present; perhaps they were short-staffed. Knowledge of the short wine list was lacking, even when the maitre d' sauntered by to lend a hand.

Recommendations were often offered on a wine or food's "organic" status, rather than its merit. Overall, I'd say that was indicative; I was sold on the idea of a restaurant that favored organic ingredients, but it was too good to be true. Another's experience may vary, of course, but for me True doesn't make the list for another trip.

Link: http://www.truedining.com/menus/dinne...

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