Months of research, including research into who is closed in August (at http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/977762), I finally have a draft plan. The parameters are that I am traveling with wife and 2 boys (an always-ravenous 10 year old, and an 8 year old who doesn’t like knowing where "pork" comes from - so no severed heads on the table!), and that on our dates (August 1-10), choices are more limited. We are spending the first 3 days just outside of Beaune acclimating (and drinking red Burgundy), then 6 in Paris (9th).
Saturday arrival and dinner at nearby “Aupres du Clocher” in Pommard (which will just have reopened from summer vacation, which they take in July).
Sunday lunch at “La Ruchotte” (so excited!); tour Fallot mustard factory in Beaune in the afternoon, and cheese shopping at Alain Hess (for what will have to be a light dinner after the farmhouse feast).
Monday: Plan “A” is to visit Fromagerie Gaugry, then have Lunch at Chez Guy (reserved), and spend the afternoon tasting Gevrey-Chambertin wines; Plan “B” fromagerie Gaugry, light lunch, visit Domaine Jadot @3pm for a guided tour, and dinner at Christophe Queaunt (in Pommard and close to place of stay). I need some help between these 2 options.
Tuesday: arrive in Paris (attempting Versailles on the drive in from Beaune). Eat at nearby Bistrot Capucine (closest option, with happy hour 6-8pm – assuming they are not closed in August), or Brasserie Flottes.
Wednesday: after visiting Ste. Chapelle and Notre Dame in the morning, lunch at (proximate) Restaurant AT (a little risky with kids, who pay the full 45E rate according to the restaurant). Dinner at Le BAT (because it can be a light dinner – tapas style).
Thursday: not sure what part of the city we will descend on, but have a (8pm) reservation at Saturne. This is the biggest risk of the trip, because of the time (8pm) formality (fairly upscale) and the uncertainty of how a ‘no choice’ menu will be configured for the kids (worst-case is a full 65E price for dinner, which is equal to what they would cost at Spring for ‘kid portion’ anyway).
Friday: Assuming we save the Eiffel Tower and Arc de Triomphe for this day, considering lunch with a view at Ciel de Paris (not exactly nearby). We will probably be hungry enough for dinner after that smaller lunch, so perhaps Les Cartes Postales or Le Petit Colbert that night.
Saturday: wide open. As we get further into August, more places are closed, but one option taking reservations is Lazare (seems to be one of the rare places where lunch and dinner cost the same – and both pretty expensive at that). I made an online dinner reservation, but will have to investigate more.
The wild card is Chez L’Ami Jean – I’d do that on the Friday or final Saturday for sure, but as of today (mid-June) they are still saying “closed the entire month” and so, like Frenchie, I think I have to just accept the loss and move on.
Thoughts, comments and criticisms (ex ”don’t you dare take kids to Saturne/AT”) welcomed.
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