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equinoise | | Jan 10, 2014 10:21 PM

With the enduring love for Spinasse, I am a bit surprised no dedicated Aragona post has yet emerged. Paging Dr. Tom Armitage... Maybe others are waiting for it to ripen or settle.

At any rate, my bride and I visited about 2 weeks ago. It had a good crowd for 9 on a Monday. Nice view of the port terminal and ferris wheel from the bar, not so much from the dining room. Serious investment in the lights and furnishings. Breakdown:

Tortilla de topinambur con erizo de mar : super nice Spanish-style sunchoke omelette topped with uni. Radical. I could only wish they doubled the portion of uni.

Coliflor con ajo tostado y vinaigre de moscatel : we can't deny romanesco in any form (sauce or veg). The fried garlic here was an adept textural play and the vegetable was expertly cooked. Substantial portion too. Will try this at home (, kids).

Fricandó estilo de la casa (Braised beef cheeks with boletus mushrooms and puff pastry): this was most reminiscent off what makes Spiansse so special. Superlative meat perhaps echoing Beouf bourguignon, but with more interesting shrooms and an added gelatinous quality one would expect of cheeks. I must say the oyster-cracker sized nuggets of pastry seemed superfluous here.

The best dish we had is not on the current site to be pasted here. It was a soupy rice dish with outstandingly prepared geoduck (never had a better non-raw version), turnips and their greens, bathed in a shellfish broth with a Proustian depth of flavor that I will never forget.

The dessert was a miss for us, described as follows: "‘Todos los santos’
“All Saints” Steamed almond and sweet-potato cake with chestnut, honey and moscatel". What arrived was a deconstructed collective of jels, steamed dough and cookie. I gather they were seeking an outlet for expressing some modernist Spanish techniques and whimsy, but it was not expected and made for an awkward jump from the other courses.

Will be back. Will go to bar. Will eat very well. Will try different dessert item(s).

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