The beach resorts between Venice and Trieste (Jesolo, Caorle, Bibione, Lignano and Grado) have changed their culinary face during the last years and are offering now eateries whoch are worth a detour.
20 years ago the only place were you could get decent food were the hotels, which offered half or full board at reasonable prices. But recently more and more apartment rentals have replaced smaller and simpler hotels, and so people have started to go out, which in turn has created a lively scene of simple as well as refined eateries. And of course the really good places are still a little bit hard to find, but offer great and authentic Venetian food at riculously low prices.
Our last find is this place: Al Traghetto, beside a ponton bridge crossing the Piave river.
This restaurnat has an open fire on the front porch, where the padrone burns emptied and dried red maize ears. Two grills are located on each side of the fireplace, and are constantly supplied with ashed-over ears. Only fish and other seafood is grilled here, if you order e.g. a braciola di vitello (recommended !) they use another grill in the kitchen.
We visited this place four times within the last two weeks, and had:
cicale di mare ("canoce"), folpetti al vapore, caposante alla griglia as antipasti, and
sogliola, rombo, branzino, anguilla, sarde and volpino as well as mazzancolle (large shrimp) from the maize grill. Not only was the freshness of all seafood amazing, even more amazing was what we paid:
The most expensive dinner we had at this place (a party of four):
Antipasto: two servings of canoce, one of folpetti, one serving of three "caposante"
Pasta: four half-servings of risotto alla scampi
Secondo: a large plate of grilled fish and scampi: six different kind of fish (see above) !!
Dolce: four sgroppinos (lemon ice mixed with Prosecco),
and only one crema catalana ( we were to full).
Drinks: one litre of Prosecco and two bottles of mineral water, four espressos
This four course splurge cost exactly 173,- EUR for the four of us !!
So, if you find yourself in a possession of a car and are moving somewhere between Venice and Trieste: go to al Traghetto !!
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