For some reason I thought he had reviewed Marigold, or was that before the chef change?
He doesn't pass up the chance to repeat once again his visceral dislike of modernist cuisine:
"Bubbles, foam, and smoke, of course, are the cliches of molecular gastronomy, the science-driven edge of contemporary cooking that, in my experience, too often distracts young chefs with shiny gadgets when they should just be thinking harder about harmonious plates."
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