Restaurants & Bars

Boston Area

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2 North End updates

Limster | Sep 27, 2004 01:20 AM

Pomodoro

Pleasant green olive flavour in the green olive risotto, demure enough to lend a gentle tang to the palate, but sharp and intense enough to cut through the heavier and moderately tender veal with its thick, sticky and slightly sweet sauce. A nice combination. Unfortunately, the risotto is overcooked, the grains of rice all soft, instead of retaining its textural integrity, the light crispiness on the inside of the grain that I love in properly made risotti.

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Via Valverde

The menu lists all the favourites from Trattoria Scalinetella. A luxurious bar downstairs, done beautifully with a certain aristocratic distinctionn and taste. A list of mostly (all?) Italian wines, expensive-looking, intriguing, I wanted to try them all. The "al nero" a black muscat I tasted was gorgeous, balanced, ripe and rich without any cloying qualities, its dark complex nature fully developed with the summer berry dessert.

A simple, iconic dessert, a condensation of the bounteous summer. Lusty raspberries, cool intense blueberries, light fruity strawberries in a stirring lemoncello marinate, subtley sharp with citric zestiness, lightly aromatic, a perfect foil for berries. A dense dollop of cream, with just the right tang, thick as butter, where sparing white dabs contrast the sweet fruit and pointed marinate. No fuss, no construction, no mindbending intricacy; just the purity of the season's best.

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