It's kalguksu weather, and E Eto's go-to spot for these warming Korean noodle soups is Jang Tur in Flushing. There's no English menu, but most diners come for the handmade wheat noodles in chicken, seafood, and other variations, so the Korean-challenged can order by pointing. Turn up the heat, if you like, with killer house-made chile sauce.
Jang Tur, which is not far from another hound-recommended kalguksu specialist, Arirang, also serves these noodles with sticky rice balls in patjuk (red bean soup), HLing reports. It's thick and hearty, she says, and some people like to sweeten it with sugar. Cabbage kimchee and crisp, juicy pickled radish come on the side.
Out in Auburndale, Tang specializes in a very different Korean soup: sullongtang, the spare, milky broth brewed from long-cooked beef bones. kenito799 says it hits the spot, beefy and rich; season it at the table with salt, pepper, and scallions. Also recommended is yukgaejang, a delicious, meaty, moderately spicy stew of beef, tripe, and vegetables.
Tang is, or was, connected with the K-town sullongtang specialist Gam Mee Ok. Like Gam Mee Ok it's open 24 hours, a smart policy for a restaurant that serves superb late-night post-drinking fare. Unlike Gam Mee Ok it has a counter that makes pan-fried savory pancakes, jeon, to order (though not around the clock). Try hot peppers stuffed with minced pork, perilla leaf with minced pork, or battered, griddled oysters. "These dishes are amazing," kenito promises. "Perfect place for a nighttime snack and a bottle of soju."
As long as the soju's flowing, here's news from Han Shin Pocha, a cozy and authentic Korean pub known to hounds for charcoal-grilled clam feasts, among other things. The previously unmentioned must-try dish here, joonjoon insists, is grilled eel. Order it half marinated, half salt grilled; both variations kill.
Jang Tur [Flushing]
35-38 Union Street (between 35th Avenue and Northern Boulevard), Flushing, Queens
196-50 Northern Boulevard (at Francis Lewis Boulevard), Flushing, Queens
Han Shin Pocha [Flushing]
40-03 149th Place (near Roosevelt Avenue), Flushing, Queens
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Han Shin Pocha, Flushing