Riddhi Shah wrote about food and gender yesterday in Salon, and though the article comes at the issue from an interesting angle initially (how do we assign gender to foods?), it ultimately doesn't tell us anything we haven't heard before: Our relationship to food has some biological underpinnings, but it's also tremendously influenced by our culture. And the U.S. has the luxury of being the most culturally (i.e., psychologically) invested in, and screwed up about, food.
What the hell is going on here? It’s a wine bar, and everybody’s drinking out of Mason jars. A sign says “Order at the counter,” but when you sit down, several different servers wander by, asking if you’d like to order. No origins or varietals are listed on the wine list, but rather descriptions like: “Softer than a Snuggie.” Polanski’s Knife in the Water is being projected on the wall, but generic ’90s alterna-rock is blasting from the speakers.
Don’t overanalyze it. It’s called Heart, not head. READ MORE
La Colombe's iced coffee packs something extra, says sam1: a double shot of espresso. The resulting brew is one of the best in town, bracingly strong but not burnt-tasting. The simple syrup that sweetens it has something unexpected going on, too; vanilla, sugartoof surmises.
The difference in Stumptown's delicious iced coffee is a deep chocolaty note, sam reports. Miss Needle detected something similar in the strong, smooth iced Kona at Roasting Plant.
Other hounds cool off with iced coffee at the single-origin-bean specialist Kaffe 1668, Abraço ("serious kick," reports Bone Thug n Hominy), Joe the Art of Coffee, Jack's Stir Brew, and RBC NYC.
And new in town is the Village outpost of Brooklyn's Nut Box, with a cold-brewed iced coffee that's thick, rich, and deeply flavorful. "Very delish!" Jess321 declares.
La Colombe Torrefaction [Tribeca]
319 Church Street (at Lispenard Street), Manhattan
La Colombe [SoHo]
270 Lafayette Street (between Prince and Houston streets), Manhattan
18 W. 29th Street (between Broadway and Fifth Avenue), Manhattan
Roasting Plant [Lower East Side]
81 Orchard Street (between Broome and Grand streets), Manhattan
Roasting Plant [West Village]
75 Greenwich Avenue (near Seventh Avenue S.), Manhattan
Kaffe 1668 [Tribeca]
275 Greenwich Street (between Warren and Murray streets), Manhattan
Abraço [East Village]
86 E. Seventh Street (at Mott Street), Manhattan
Joe the Art of Coffee [Greenwich Village]
141 Waverly Place (at Gay Street), Manhattan
Jack's Stir Brew Coffee [Greenwich Village]
138 W. 10th Street (between Greenwich Avenue and Waverly Place), Manhattan
RBC NYC [Tribeca]
71 Worth Street (between Church Street and Broadway), Manhattan
The Nut Box [Greenwich Village]
49 E. Eighth Street (near University Place), Manhattan
Discuss: Best iced coffee?
Celeb chef Tyler Florence's new restaurant, Wayfare Tavern, just opened and is packing in foodies and Food Network fans alike, says Foodnut8. The chef de cuisine, Michael Thiemann, comes from Merriman's in Hawaii and the Hapuku Lodge in New Zealand, but the focus at Wayfare is on American comfort food made with local and sustainable ingredients.
The food is "surprisingly very good for a brand-new place," says Foodnut8, who particularly liked the baked avocado with crab, pickled anchovies, organic fried chicken, and smoked Sonoma pork ribs.
The old-fashioned decor is "out of the Barbary Coast era with dark wood floors, old school lightbulbs, lots of hunting trophies," and other details, Foodnut8 says. The dining area sprawls over two floors, and there’s also counter and rustic booth seating, plus a billiards room.
Wayfare Tavern [Nob Hill]
558 Sacramento Street, San Francisco
In a sea of very good Asian food—Thai, Malaysian, Indonesian, and more—an island of hound-worthy Mexican has surfaced. The El Picosito truck turns out fine lengua and carnitas tacos from its customary spot in front of a Walgreens in Elmhurst, Queens, E Eto reports.
In the prime taco turf along Roosevelt Avenue to the north, E Eto's top tier includes Los Cuatro Vientos, Tia Julia, El Gallo Giro, and Tacos y Quesadillas Mexico. El Picosito's tacos rank right up there, he says.
El Picosito [Elmhurst]
Broadway between Elmhurst and Whitney avenues, Elmhurst, Queens
No phone available
Discuss: El Picosito taco truck in Elmhurst
Diary of a New Food Truck Owner is an ongoing series where we talk with Meg Hilgartner, co-owner (with Siri Skelton) of a fledgling San Francisco mobile soft-serve ice cream business called Twirl and Dip. In this installment, Meg and Siri wrangle with the Health Department, learn how to make window screens, and explain how easily they could become the scourge of a new neighborhood. Read all the installments.
So much stuff has happened since the last time we talked, I don't even know where to start. Let's see. We've been making fruitsicles, which are truly, truly fantastic. We make them out of really ripe fruit we get at the farmers' market. We did a strawberry with a little slice of berry tossed in sugar frozen in the middle. And something I got a little creative with and called summer salad. It was blueberries, cantaloupe, and sweet corn. It sounds gross but It. Was. Delicious. The corn was raw and puréed, and gave a little toothsomeness to the popsicle, and they were sweet, and a really beautiful purply-blue color. We did three different kinds of peach 'sicles: peach with riesling, peach with brown sugar, and peach with a little blueberry frozen in the middle.
Yummy World lives up to its name with subtly flavored, healthier-than-usual Cantonese fare, hounds say. “The steamed egg white with tofu and seafood was excellent—soft and delicate and sweet with somewhat salty egg whites,” says charliemyboy. It's great comfort food, pilinut agrees. “The egg whites were so tenderly cooked that we needed spoons to eat the dish.”
"The kitchen is expert in frying," comments Melanie Wong, who loved the salt and pepper fried beef, and tofu and calamari platter garnished with fried garlic.
The restaurant does seafood well—sweet, succulent lobster shines alongside flat egg-and-wheat e-fu noodles. Clams in black bean sauce shows off fresh, plump clams, while clams in steamed egg have "that creamy custard texture that's so difficult to replicate at home," says foodlover. Honey walnut prawns are expertly done, with a light hand on the sauce and house-prepped honey walnuts.
But there are also good meat dishes, like the meltingly tender pork with preserved vegetables. House special pork chop is nicely fried, with a sweet-tart sauce; chicken with Chinese sausage has "great flavor and wonderful texture in the mushrooms," charliemyboy says.
Perhaps most notable of all: This is a nice restaurant with modern decor that doesn’t skimp on quality or authenticity. Even the presentation of the dishes is well thought out, comments vliang.
Yummy World [South Bay]
2216 S. El Camino Real, San Mateo
Di Palo's Fine Foods, a mecca for Italian cooks, is a destination for sandwich eaters, too. Its porchetta sandwich is simple yet sensational, Westminstress reports: just freshly roasted pork on good ciabatta. "The pork was so juicy and flavorful from the herbs," she says, "and every bite had a bit of crispy crackling."
Meatball parmigiana lovers keep coming back to Frankies 17 Clinton Street Spuntino, whose standout sandwich comes on rosemary bread from Grandaisy Bakery. It's "mighty fine," promises Blumie.
Di Palo's Fine Foods [Little Italy]
200 Grand Street (at Mott Street), Manhattan
Frankies 17 Clinton Street Spuntino [Lower East Side]
17 Clinton Street (between Houston and Stanton streets), Manhattan
Hounds looking for fried chicken to go in the East Bay can choose between the traditional soul food version and Chinese style, which is usually just drumettes.
Scend's and the thin-crusted chicken at Merritt Bakery are the top picks in the soul-food category, while shanghaikid has relied on Best Taste in years past for a drumette fix.
Scend's [East Bay]
3627 San Pablo Avenue, Emeryville
Merritt Bakery [East Bay]
203 E. 18th Street, Oakland
Best Taste [East Bay]
814 Franklin Street, Oakland
New Golden Daisy [Chinatown]
1041 Stockton Street, San Francisco
Tai Chi [Nob Hill]
2031 Polk Street, San Francisco