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Recipe inspiration, tips, and kitchen hacks from the Chowhound editors.


Perbacco is a delicious new choice for upscale Italian, says monday. Try the salumi misti, featuring their house-made finocchiona, which has a soft, lush texture and lovely fennel flavor. Pasta dishes are transcendent, like house-made pasta filled with roasted veal in a simple butter sauce with braised cabbage. The cheese plate, served with chestnut flower honey, marcona almonds, and local muscato grapes, is a nice dish, too.

MorganSF agrees wholeheartedly, and recommends pansotti stuffed with chard, ricotta, herbs, and walnut butter. Or try the pan-roasted chicken with Meyer lemon pan juices and broccoli with anchovy garlic butter. Gelati and other dessert items are extremely good, too. “Only potential embarassment stopped me from licking the plate,” says MorganSF.

Perbacco [Embarcadero]
230 California St., San Francisco

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Perbacco, go there now!

Ferdinando’s Revisited: Sicilian Surprise in Brooklyn

Over a century of dishing up hearty Sicilian chow, Ferdinando’s has had its ups and downs–mostly downs in recent years, says Steve R. But his latest lunch there suggests things are looking up again. Panelle (chickpea fritters) and arancini (rice-cheese balls) are flavorful and clean-tasting, and vastedde are just right: fresh calf spleen and cheese in a nice, medium-soft sesame roll. “If the rest of their food is as well prepared,” adds Steve, “this place is back up there with Joe’s of Avenue U as one of the last remaining places to eat this type of Sicilian cooking in Brooklyn.”

Others recommend marinated eggplant, lightly dressed octopus or calamari salads, and the first-rate veal parmigiana sandwich, on fresh house-baked bread with smooth, flavorful tomato sauce.

Beyond the food, the ancient room looks brighter and spiffier than it has in years, and service is uncharacteristically friendly. Hours, as always, are variable. Recent reports say they’re open longer than before, as late as 10 p.m. But some regulars say the food is better and fresher earlier in the day.

Ferdinando’s Focacceria [Carroll Gardens]
151 Union St., between Hicks and Columbia, Brooklyn

Joe’s of Avenue U Italian Cuisine [Gravesend]
287 Ave. U, between McDonald Ave. and Lake St., Brooklyn

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Sniffing Out White Truffles Around Manhattan

White truffles are here, and A Voce is making the most of the all-too-brief season. Phil E spotted three truffle specials on the menu early this month, including an egg dish and a delicious pasta, which arrived covered in truffle shavings. They run around $85 for appetizers and $105 for entrees.

Bottega del Vino offers a white truffle menu that includes a gorgeous risotto, perfectly cooked with rich, buttery cheese sauce–$110 and actually worth it, swears Hot Chocolate. Truffled asparagus-quail egg salad ($65) was not as good, marred by overcooked egg and soggy asparagus, though flavors were strong.

At Cru, truffle lovers have a couple of options: a full truffle tasting menu for $400 or truffles as an add-on to any dish for $50. Eleven Madison Park offers white truffles for a $65 supplement with Parmesan risotto, lobster lasagne, or frog legs with egg and chanterelles.

Hearth also has white truffles some nights. Mazzer, seated at the kitchen counter when neighboring diners coughed up the $50 supplement, watched a visibly excited chef Marco Canora cover a plate of risotto in a generous flurry of truffle slices.

WineTravel says Alain Ducasse gets the best truffles around for its amazing $320 tasting menu: “Killer!! Oh yeah, I had to pay.”

A Voce [Midtown]
41 Madison Ave., entrance on 26th St. between Madison and Park Ave. S., Manhattan

Bottega del Vino [Midtown]
7 E. 59th St., between 5th and Madison Aves., Manhattan

Cru [Greenwich Village]
24 5th Ave., at 9th St., Manhattan

Eleven Madison Park [Gramercy]

11 Madison Ave., at E. 24th St., Manhattan

Hearth [East Village]
403 E. 12th St., at 1st Ave., Manhattan

Alain Ducasse [Midtown]
155 W. 58th St., in Essex House, Manhattan

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It’s white truffle season (I think)

Tamale Time in the OC

Where to get Christmas tamales in Orange County? Las Golondrinas has the best, says jsl, who prefers their veggie and rajas (cheese with three kinds of peppers). El Toro Market has great tamales, says quinntran, but even better are those at Tamale Queen. Northgate Market makes a mean tamal oaxaqueno de puerco en chile rojo, says kare_raisu.

Las Golondrinas [South OC]
25800 Jeronimo Rd. Ste. 700, Mission Viejo

Las Golondrinas Mexican Food [South OC]
27124 Paseo Espada # 803 (Ortega Highway), San Juan Capistrano

Las Golondrinas Mexican Food [OC Beaches]
34069 Doheny Park Rd., Capistrano Beach

Las Golondrinas Mexican Food [South OC]
27981 Greenfield Dr. # G, Laguna Niguel

Las Golondrinas Mexican Food [South OC]
400 Camino De Estrella # B, San Clemente

El Toro Carniceria-Meat Shop [South OC]
1340 W. 1st St., Santa Ana

Tamale Queen [South OC]
a.k.a. Reyna’s Mexican Grill
1620 E. 1st St., Santa Ana

Northgate Market [Citywide]

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Tamales in OC for a party on December 3rd

Feeling Kinda Corny

It’s probably not a surprise that Fresh Corn Grill has great corn. The grilled salmon and corn are really good, says waterisgood–you can’t get salmon of that quality for less than $10 anywhere else. And their top-notch corn chowder is reminiscent of the Ivy’s, where the owner reputedly used to work.

Despite some hounds’ criticism about the Ivy, there’s no beating their corn chowder, says Tom P–silky, full of corn and spicy.

Fresh Corn Grill [Wealthy Westlands]
1510 Westwood Blvd., Los Angeles

The Ivy [West Hollywood]
113 N. Robertson Blvd., Los Angeles

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Have anyone been to: The abbey, Bistro of SM, or Fresh Corn
ISO Corn Chowder

The Unbearable Squishyness of Persimmons

Ever on the forefront of the world’s exotic edibles, this month’s Saveur exposes a nation of unprepared readers to the wonders of the hoshi
—Japanese massaged dried persimmon.

If you’re into persimmons—that’s kind of unusual, frankly—hoshi gaki are your foie gras, your filet mignon, your Beluga caviar. Hung with string from a bamboo pole, the drying persimmons are massaged by hand every other day for up to five weeks until the fruits’ fructose rises to the surface in a bloom that resembles powdered sugar.

If this kind of deeply traditional and/or nutty dedication to the perfect dried fruit appeals to you, Penryn Orchard Specialties can hook
you up
to the tune of $28 a pound.

Simple One-Pot Meals in Your Rice Cooker

Flavorful lop cheong (Chinese sausage) can be cooked along with the rice in a rice cooker, giving flavor to the rice and making a one-pot meal. You can also add a little something when the rice is just finished cooking and the heat of the rice will cook it, says yimster, such as whipped eggs seasoned with soy sauce, oyster sauce, and sesame oil.

According to Hungry Celeste, you can make a decent version of jambalaya in a rice cooker: Saute chopped onion, celery, bell pepper, and garlic until fragrant, and add to rice cooker along with rice, peeled shrimp, thinly sliced smoked sausage, and an appropriate amount of rice and chicken or shrimp stock.

pattisue uses chicken stock instead of water and adds chopped sauteed veggies; after the rice is cooked, she mixes in chicken browned and cooked in olive oil and garlic on the stove, for a quick and tasty meal.

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Rice cooker add-in recipes


Preparing frozen edamame (fresh soybeans) in the shell is simple. They’re pre-cooked, so all you need to do heat and season them. Simply drop the frozen edamame into a pot of salted boiling water, cook for 4-5 minutes, drain and rinse with cold water and season with sea salt. pescatarian put them in cold water and brings it to a boil; as soon as it starts boiling rapidly he drains and salts. Some microwave: place the edamame in a bowl with 3-4 Tbsp. water and cover, nuke for a minute or two, drain the water, and salt. For additional flavor, try squeezing on some lime juice before salting, or dressing your edamame in curry powder fried in oil.

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Vidalia Onions

Vidalia onions are the pride of Vidalia, Ga. They’re sweet onions–big, juicy sweet onions. For most locations, availability depends on the season, but they’re always available online, or by calling 800-447-9338.

Once you get them home, advisor_Girl says they’ll keep up to a year in a drawer in the fridge, when they’re individually wrapped. Another good storage tip: slip them into the leg of pantyhose and separate them by tying a knot between each one.

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TGIF–Thanksgiving in Florida

Apple Guide

Apple Journal is a terrific website to refer to when selecting apples. It describes the parentage, appearance, and texture of different apple varieties. It also tells you how well each type keeps.

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In search of an apple . . .