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Recipe inspiration, tips, and kitchen hacks from the Chowhound editors.

Kitchen Couples Clash

Forget sex on the kitchen floor, couples in the kitchen these days are more likely to be cooking together. But the question remains: Who is on top?

In an interesting article titled “He Cooks. She Stews. It’s Love.” (registration required), The New York Times looks at couples cooking together. It’s a new age—men can be responsible for dinner just as much as women. But despite equality, it’s not always smooth sailing in the kitchen.

It was a nice fantasy while it lasted … the modern couple would share the work. Husbands would take an interest in casseroles. Wives would slap slabs of meat on the grill. They would read cookbooks and watch the Food Network together. The kitchen would be a peaceful domain equally ruled by two people…. Instead, wedged there in the kitchen together, they fell into a power dynamic just as unequal and emotionally fraught…. Instead of a partnership, some couples say that their relationship in the kitchen more closely resembles a tiny dictatorship.

They’re called Kitchen Alphas—those who, rather than sharing the kitchen, prefer to rule it. Derek LaVallee, wine columnist for The Hill, is one such Alpha to his wife’s Kitchen Beta.

‘I can’t watch her cook,’ Mr. LaVallee said. ‘I’d say things like, “I can’t believe you’re julienning the carrots that way!” And then I’d think, “Did that really just come out of your mouth?”’

Even the professionals are weighing in on this one. “If there’s a power struggle, it will come out in cooking together,” said Dr. Marion F. Solomon, a couples therapist in Los Angeles.

Not even professional cooks can avoid this problem, because ordering around your sous-chef is not exactly the same as ordering around your husband.

Rebecca Charles, the chef and owner of Pearl Oyster Bar in Greenwich Village and an admitted alpha, said: ‘Giving orders is fine in a professional environment, but at home it’s a little inappropriate. I can be a little bossy. Resentment can build, and before you know it you have a pot flying at your head and you don’t know why. Couples cooking together is probably the second leading cause of divorce next to home renovations.’

What do you think? Are you a Kitchen Alpha or Beta—or has your household found true kitchen harmony? (and does it include takeout?)

Wood’s Poor Cousin

Wood’s Poor Cousin

CHOW reviews the best plastic cutting boards. READ MORE

Colbert-n-Cream

Looks like the rumors were true: Ben & Jerry’s was planning a Colbert-themed ice cream. The company unveiled Stephen Colbert’s Americone Dream yesterday, which means you can have “the sweet taste of liberty in your mouth” as soon as it’s shipped out to your local supermarket.

What does this liberty taste like, you may ask? Basically like vanilla ice cream with fudge-covered waffle cone pieces and a caramel swirl. But it’s also so much more. Colbert issued a statement in character (the politically left-leaning comedian dons a faux conservative persona for his show) explaining that the way he sees it,

Dessert has a well-known liberal agenda. What I hope to do with this ice cream is bring some balance back to the freezer case.

He also plans to donate his portion of the proceeds to various charities (personally, I’m hoping he doesn’t stay in character when he chooses those … but maybe that’s just me). What other celebs would you like to see immortalized in ice cream?

Salted Coffee, You Say?

Who in their right mind would put salt in a cup of coffee? Someone stuck with a seriously substandard cup of coffee, that’s who. “I will never suffer through another bad cup of coffee at a fast food joint, restaurant, gas station, etc., as long as I have salt to add to the cup,” says rworange.

A very judicious sprinkle of salt (just a few grains, really) indeed takes the edge off a bad cup of coffee, taking away the sharp bite and making it mellow and smoother. It won’t become great coffee, but it will be decent. However, adding salt to decent, non-bitter coffee can make it worse, making the subtle defects more obvious. (No word on salt’s effect on really good coffee.)

Some additional findings from rworange: Less is more–you don’t want salty-tasting coffee. Add only the tiniest bit and taste; when it has mellowed the brew, stop. And it makes no difference in flavor whether salt is added to coffee grounds before brewing (1/8 tsp. is plenty for a 10-cup drip coffee maker) or to a finished cup.

Board Links

Coffee with Salt

Beyond Sound Bites

McDonald’s gets a bad rap, restaurant reviewers get special treatment, and we should pretty much eat whatever we want without stressing about it. That’s the nutshell summary that some reviewers are giving of The Gospel of Food, sociologist Barry Glassner’s survey of contemporary food culture, which was released late last year. But reviews that have gone a little deeper show that the book doesn’t lend itself to sound bites and should probably be at the top of any foodophile’s reading pile (mine included).

Glassner’s discussion of income level and its relationship to food and obesity seems particularly novel. As he told Salon:

If you want to understand why people of low income tend to be more overweight and obese, it’s a complicated story. But we shouldn’t leave out the effect that food insecurity itself has; in the book I go into this in some detail, but basically there’s a parallel pattern to binge eating, where people who periodically run low on food resemble people who are on diets. When food stamps run out, or the kids’ medical expenses take precedence, or the local food bank shuts down or runs out of food, you’re not going to eat a lot. And when food becomes available again, you binge. We know that this pattern, this binge pattern, contributes to overweight and obesity. Yet we’ve come to have this odd notion that it’s what people eat, it’s what low-income people eat, rather than what they don’t eat, or when they don’t eat, or which options are not available to them, that explains their weight.

Has anyone here read the book yet? Chowhounders have had mixed reviews so far, but to me TGOF seems like the kind of work that, like The Omnivore’s Dilemma, the food community will be talking about for a long time to come. And speaking of Michael Pollan, Glassner’s skeptical take on nutritional science lends an interesting voice to recent debate over what Pollan terms “nutritionism” (registration required).

A More Refined Beef Tongue Soup

Seoul Gom Tang makes excellent Korean soups, specializing in oxtail soup. The amount of care taken in making the broth is clear from the taste. However, there’s a newcomer in the Korean soup department–Seen Chon House, with an even more stripped-down menu than Seoul Gom Tang. Seen Chon House only makes soups, and the specialization results in an extremely refined broth. Try the wul sul (beef tongue) soup and you won’t be disappointed. al88 also thinks they have some of the best napa cabbage kimchi around. Feel free to toss some kimchi into your soup for a little spice–but it’s not the kind of soup to dump half a cup of chili paste into.


Seen Chon House Restaurant [South Bay]
1066 Kiely Blvd., Santa Clara
408-983-0588
Map

Seoul Gom Tang [South Bay]
3028 El Camino Real, Santa Clara
408-615-0370
Locater

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Sean Chon House

Fondues and Fondon’ts

For every need, there is an appropriate fondue restaurant. Robert Lauriston faintly praises Fondue Fred as “fine for the low price.” They even serve all-you-can-eat cheesecake–after the fondue. “I can’t believe I ate that in college,” says Glencora.

On a more sophisticated note, anna loves the fondue at the Matterhorn, and The Dive likes the fondue at Cav, served with bread, apples, and walnuts.

And MSK admits (with a measure of embarrassment) that chain restaurant the Melting Pot in Marin is completely enjoyable. Kids love it, and even though the menu lists prices per person, you may order one massive serving for two to share. Enjoy!


Fondue Fred [East Bay]
2556 Telegraph Avenue, Berkeley
510-549-0850
Locater

Matterhorn Restaurant [Russian Hill]
2323 Van Ness Ave., San Francisco
415-885-6116
Locater

Cav Wine Bar [Hayes Valley]
1666 Market St., San Francisco
415-437-1770
Locater

The Melting Pot [Marin County]
125 E. Sir Francis Drake Blvd., Larkspur
415-461-6358
Locater

The Melting Pot [South Bay]
72 S. 1st St., San Jose
408-293-6020
Locater

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Fond o’ Fondue

Catch of the Day – Gorgeous Grilled Octopus at Vespa

centrejack had a decent but unexceptional Italian dinner at Vespa with one memorable must-try appetizer: octopus, marinated and beautifully grilled. It’s tender, tasty, and nicely seasoned, and you get a generous plate of it for $11. Accompaniments change with the seasons; for winter they’re serving it with potato, fresh herbs, and roasted peppers.

Vespa [Upper East Side]
1625 2nd Ave., between E. 84th and 85th Sts., Manhattan
212-472-2050
Locater

Board Links: NYE at Vespa–one dish you have to try

Korean Walnut Treats at Woodside’s Man Mi

At Man Mi bakery, a contraption that could have come from “Charlie and the Chocolate Factory” bangs out fresh, hot Korean-style walnut cakes. Known as hodo kwaja, they’re like less greasy doughnut holes filled with red bean paste and walnuts, Dave G reports.

These are not hard to find around New York–Korean supermarkets and chain bakeries sell them at room temperature, swaddled in plastic wrap. But for the best specimens, advises surly, you need to find a specialty shop that makes only a few items–like Man Mi–and score a batch hot off the griddle. “There aren’t too many of these specialists around anymore,” he adds. “It’s unlikely that you’ll be able to get a hot, fresh version of these cakes at a larger, more comfortable Korean bakery like, say, Koryodang.”

Man Mi cranks up the hodo kwaja machine on an irregular schedule during the week, but it’s always up and running on Saturdays from around 8:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. A fresh bag of 10 costs $2.


Man Mi [Woodside]
54-08 Roosevelt Ave., between 54th and 55th Sts., Woodside, Queens
718-565-5438
Map

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Korean Walnut Cake in Woodside

Not Feeling the Heat at Chichen Itza

After giving the new, real-restaurant incarnation of Chichen Itza a few weeks to get the kinks out, silverlake bodhisatva tried it out for dinner.

The verdict: Tasty stuff, but on the mild-to-bland side. Now, Yucatecan food isn’t necessarily spicy, but the sour-orange marinade for the cochinita pibil, for example, doesn’t really come through.

Their technique is on, says Dommy, a Yucatan native who thinks that Flor de Yucatan has more soul. Cochinita, kibis, and panuchos–check it.


Chichen Itza [Macarthur Park]
2501 W. 6th St., Los Angeles
213-380-0051

La Flor de Yucatan [Downtown]
1800 S. Hoover St, Los Angeles
213-748-6090
Locater

Board Links

BYO Habanero at Chichen Itza