Recipe inspiration, tips, and kitchen hacks from the Chowhound editors.
Getting in on the mad rush to provide all manner of affordable luxuries to an increasingly jaded public, hotel restaurants and upscale eateries are serving up flashy new coffee-related beverages that fetch up to $40 a cup. USA Today reports on the kind of stuff involved in the rush toward large-scale coffee luxury (single-estate coffees, full-time baristas, exquisitely calibrated water temperatures, etc.).
This is old news for foodies up on their “news of the weird,” but some of the most sought-after java is brewed from beans that have been pooped out of the butts of a catlike Indonesian critter known as a civet. The exciting thing is that Kopi Luwak will now be hittin’ the streets to catch the eyes of consumers no longer thrilled by the finest brews Starbucks has to offer.
Speaking of which, ‘Bucks bashing is the name of the game in this piece. It isn’t easy being Starbucks these days; you’ve got magical creatures crapping out beans better than your own, and on the other end, McDonald’s coffee is doing better in taste tests. Talk about getting it from both ends.
Sure, it causes embarrassing digestive problems and makes you look like a Valley girl. But gum manufacturers (and some gum-manufacturer-funded scientific studies) claim that chewing the stuff makes you healthy—and some companies are experimenting with ways to boost those health claims by adding “functional” ingredients meant to suppress appetite, cure headaches, and even fight cancer. As the L.A. Times reports (registration required), recent studies on regular ol’ gum show that chewing it can reduce bacteria in the mouth, improve mental clarity, and even help heal the colon after surgery.
The really interesting (and/or frightening) part, though, is the early-stage research being done on nutraceutical gum, which would likely deliver medications and supplements more effectively than swallowable pills. According to the article,
One reason for gum’s potential is that our cheeks are remarkably good at soaking things up. In a study published in 2006 in the European Journal of Clinical Pharmacology, Danish scientists found that people absorbed nearly three times as much of an antihistamine called loratadine when they chewed it as a gum instead of taking it as a tablet. About 40 percent of the medicine entered the bloodstream straight through the lining of the mouth—whereas pills have to work their way through the digestive system.
Hmmm. So using gum as a vehicle for vitamins and supplements would administer them more reliably (thus dealing with the problem of expensive pee). But then, there are some things it’s probably best not to absorb too much of.
If you’re dining out at your average resto but don’t want a meal that would feed a family of nine, what do you do? Suck it up and either gorge or take home leftovers—unless you’ve recently had gastric-bypass surgery, in which case you just flash your “get-out-of-dinner-thin” card to receive a reasonable portion. As the Houston Chronicle reported last week, an increasing number of bariatric surgeons are issuing cards that allow the patient to order a half portion or a child-size entrée without being questioned or slapped with a split-plate charge. “Soon after surgery, bariatric patients can’t eat more than a cup of food per meal,” the Chron explains.
Shockingly, some restaurants reject the cards, even for these people for whom small portions are medically necessary. Perhaps they’re worried that size-zero models will start fraudulently using the cards …
This story’s getting a little long in the tooth now—it appeared in London’s Observer at the end of January—but I couldn’t resist whipping it out for y’all, because it contains such a fascinating (and utterly depressing) follow-up on one of the great food revolutions of our time.
When it was published in 2001, Eric Schlosser’s Fast Food Nation, a polemic that revealed the nasty underbelly of the fast-food industry, was supposed to send the masses screaming away from the drive-through. Who could still happily chow down on a Whopper, knowing the human and animal suffering that preceded its presence on your table?
Well, it seems, a lot of people. In an article titled “The Man Who Ruined Our Appetites,” an interview with Schlosser centered on the UK release of the film version of his book relates some surprising information about the international growth of the fast-food chains:
But wasn’t his book supposed to have made things better? Hasn’t Ronald McDonald been busy flogging salads, and closing franchises? Another quiet Schlosser smile. There are two sides to this story. ‘McDonald’s wasn’t doing that well,’ he says. ‘Though the World Cup helped them a lot. What is good is that, since Fast Food Nation came out, there has been a shift in awareness, primarily among the middle classes. They want to know where food comes from. The rise of organics, celebrity chefs … I know some of it is irritating, but some of it is good. But what hasn’t changed is the diet of the poor. Remember smoking? When the middle classes started to give up, the tobacco companies focused their attention on the urban poor, and on developing countries. That’s what the fast food companies are doing. In the US, they’re heavily targeting African American and Latino customers. There’s all this talk about salads, but in the US, there’s also the dollar menu. In the last three years, McDonald’s has seen a 33 per cent revenue growth thanks to that. Their huge push now is in China. There’s not a great tradition of eating beef there; they favour poultry, which is why KFC is more successful. So McDonald’s ads are aimed at young men, and connect hamburger consumption with virility. It’s about potency, about women being drawn to men who eat beef. Meanwhile, in the US, they’re labelling trans fats. Now, you’re kidding yourself if you see such changes as being driven by moral or ethical concerns. They happen only when the company is under pressure.’
Yep. We’re doomed. We’re all frigging doomed.
What could be more intriguing for a hard-core food fancier than a peek inside the food choices of other people? The Montreal Gazette obliges this culinary curiosity with a weeklong series titled “Shop Cook Eat Drink” that offers detailed food diaries. It’s Peeping Tom-ery at its most delicious.
In one installment, the newspaper’s restaurant critic describes her harried life balancing career, kids, and social obligations. Like the rest of us, she valiantly tries to serve her kids healthy dinners in a relaxed atmosphere. She mostly succeeds, except when she doesn’t:
I’m pinned to the sofa with my laptop and a phone stuck to my ear for the next three hours. I catch a minute at 4 p.m. to wolf down two granola bars for a late lunch, and drop everything at 5 p.m. to pick up the kids. The story is filed at 6 p.m., and at 6:01 I see my kids wandering around the kitchen eating cookies. Jesus! I completely forgot about dinner!
In the meantime, vegetarian writer John McFarlane ponders the cheap price of pineapple and vows to try to eat locally. In Montreal. In the middle of winter. He quickly begins to tire of root veggies.
Each diary also includes a Harper’s-style by-the-numbers breakdown of the week’s food choices, where McFarlane reports:
Number of times eating packaged organic products that made me feel like a yuppie: at least 10.
Number of ingredients in a Clif Bar: 28.
The series continues through the week, and includes such goodies as a video in which two reporters head out to the supermarket to film what’s in people’s grocery carts. Vegetable vérité at its best!
Jess Leber loves Bluebottle coffee, but prefers coffee roasted by a guy named Wayne.
You acquire this coffee by searching on Craigslist (try terms like “coffee,” “bean,” and “roast”) and e-mailing the guy your coffee needs. He then roasts it to your specifications. The procedure for acquiring it is a bit weird–you slide your money through a mail slot, and Wayne has your coffee waiting for you in a box outside. “Last time, I found myself humming ‘Waiting For The Man’ by the Velvet Underground,” says Jess Leber.
Wayne the Passionate Coffee Roaster
contact through Craigslist
That Coffee Guy in Rockridge
East Bay coffee to rival Blue Bottle
The food at Cerrito Speakeasy Theater is two levels above other theaters in quality and one level below in price, making it a very chowish place, says EdwardAdams. Enormous nachos are topped with real stuff, not fluorescent orange cheese product like in other theaters. Grilled beef sandwiches (“Zombie Cow”) and slices of chocolate cake are tasty, and everything is served on real plates, not paper. Even the popcorn comes in a real bowl. rworange notes that you can also buy bottled and draft beer like Trumer Pils, and wine like Ile la Forge viognier, so you can feel like you’re in a real speakeasy.
Cerrito Speakeasy Theater [East Bay]
10070 San Pablo Avenue, El Cerrito
Cerrito Speakeasy Theater
There’s marvelous fresh-made mochi ice cream on the dinner menu at Momofuku Ssam Bar, says kathryn. A recent sampler comprised four flavors–mango, butter pecan, pistachio, and chocolate with egg nog. So try not to fill up on the boutique hams, three-terrine banh mi, fried cauliflower with chiles and mint, and other bites that make up the dinner menu (once served only after 10:30 p.m., now available from 6 on).
Momofuku Ssam Bar [East Village]
207 2nd Ave., at E. 13th St., Manhattan
late night dining at momofuku ssam?
The House of Dosas, curiously enough, has never been a hound favorite for dosas. Past reports suggested that thali lunches were the way to go. But recently, dosa lovers have stepped up and made their case.
Among the 20-plus varieties, sbp recommends onion chile masala–potato, raw onion, and kicking fresh green chile tucked into a huge, crisp, nutty, faintly caramelized crepe. Alongside comes coconut chutney and unusually soulful sambar. Even erstwhile dosa-disser TongoRad confesses to enjoying its interplay of onion and coconut flavors. jnet62 endorses the Gunpowder dosa, spiked with fiery/tart milakai podi.
Those thinking outside the dosa should try chaat (good picks: bhel puri and samosa chaat) or the popular thali, a daily-changing grab bag of bites, some on the menu and some not. Highlights include channa masala (chickpeas), eggplant any style, rasam (spicy vegetable broth), and fluffy idli (steamed rice-lentil patties). Save room for vermicelli pudding, flavored with saffron and white raisins.
House of Dosas [Nassau County]
416 S. Broadway, at Boehme St., Hicksville, NY
House of Dosas, Hicksville
A recent article in the New York Times got some hounds wondering where to find Korean fried chicken–twice-fried for maximum crunch like Belgian frites and served plain or painted with a spicy-sweet sauce.
Along with red leather booths and killer ambience, the Prince has some of the best Korean fried chicken in town. Several kinds, in fact. Deep fried spicy chicken is excellent, says cijl, like a superior version of General Tso’s–Commander Tso’s, maybe. Chicken wings are good too, very spicy and garlicky.
Retro Korean pub Dan Sung Sa also has great chicken wings, served plain, says oro3030.
And if you want to get your fried chicken to go, Koko’s in the Galleria marketplace is pretty darned good, says kproq23
The Prince [Koreatown]
3198 W. 7th St., Los Angeles
Dan Sung Sa [Koreatown]
3545 W. Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles
Koko’s Place [Koreatown]
3250 W, Olympic Blvd. #105, Los Angeles
*Board Links *
Who’s got Korean fried chicken?