In the Bronx’s Little Italy, Borgatti’s is a venerated hound destination for fresh pastas, none better than its ravioli. “Totally heavenly,” sighs rose water, after trying the ones filled with ricotta. “The pasta was light and fresh. And the filling was dense, salty, chewy and smooth simultaneously.” kenito799 recommends the smaller meat ravioli, whose filling is subtly seasoned and delicious. Cavatelli and dried pastas (plain, spinach, whole wheat, squid ink) are also excellent.
Chas shares a story about his Italian grandmother, a superb home cook who made killer ravioli. One holiday, he took over some of Borgatti’s. “After she tasted them, she looked at me and said, ‘I think these are even better than mine.’” He agrees: these babies are the best ravioli he’s ever tasted.
Another longtime neighborhood favorite is Calabria Pork Store, best known for its house-cured meats, but also a source of exceptional ricotta–exquisitely delicate and creamy, rose water reports. Among the meats, Cheese Boy singles out cheese-and-parsley sausages, loaded with bits of cheese. kenito is hooked on the dry-fermented sausages–especially the fennel and spicy varieties–that hang from the ceiling like meat stalactites and create the shop’s unmistakable funky smell. “It is a small miracle that places like this exist anymore,” he adds.
There’s also houndworthy cheese at Casa Della Mozzarella, just down the street from Borgatti’s. “Getting there just as the mozzarella is pulled from the water is like hitting the lottery,” says peasoup. Others are partial to Calandra for its intensely flavorful canestrato–“sweet, salty, tangy, a total cheese experience,” says kenito.
At Teitel Brothers, kenito adds, look for marinated white anchovies packed in a plastic tray: “Spread them out on a plate, sprinkle thin slices of hot pepper and capers on them, and add a squeeze of lemon juice: antipasto heaven.”
Calabria Pork Store [Bronx]
2338 Arthur Ave., between E. 186th St. and Crescent Ave., Bronx
Casa Della Mozzarella [Bronx]
604 E. 187th St., between Arthur and Hughes Aves., Bronx