Carnivores in Rapture at Salumeria Rosi

Since Salumeria Rosi opened late last year, most of the buzz has been about its salumi, as you might expect. It doesn’t disappoint. Cured and prepared meats from the Italian specialist Parmacotto—coppa (pork collar), pancetta (pork belly), guanciale (pork jowl), bresaola (dried beef), various kinds of prosciutto—are eliciting deep sighs and barnyard noises.

Rosi’s porchetta Toscana is pork loin seasoned with garlic and herbs, rolled in a layer of pork belly, then steamed and slow-roasted. On a meat platter or in a sandwich, it’s “porky deliciousness at its best,” declares MMRuth.

More recently, hounds have also been exploring dishes from the kitchen, overseen by Tuscan chef Cesare Casella (Maremma). Among these small plates—assaggi, or tastes, the menu calls them—pancia is a standout. This is pork belly cooked in its own fat with cicerchie beans, dandelion, and crispy skin. c oliver pronounces it perfect. She also loves the costina (spicy, slow-cooked spare rib) and trippa alla parmigiana (stewed honeycomb tripe), each “sumptuously, unctuously delicious.” guttergourmet goes for an exemplary traditional lasagne with pork-and-beef ragu and béchamel, and zucchini-pesto risotto topped with almonds (“summer in a bowl”).

Salumeria Rosi [Upper West Side]
283 Amsterdam Avenue (near W. 73rd Street), Manhattan
212-877-4800

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