Low-Impact (Low-Taste) Cookies

Jovial Foods' Einkorn Cookies

Jovial Foods' Einkorn Cookies

I Paid: $4.39 for an 8.8-ounce box (prices may vary by region)

Taste: 2 stars

Marketing: 4 stars

When I reviewed Jovial Foods' Einkorn Pasta (made from an ancient kind of cultivated wheat that boasts more nutrients and antioxidants than modern varieties), I noted its slightly malty, whole-wheat flavor and concluded that this quality wasn't too much of a detriment in dried pasta.

That's less true in the world of desserts, but in the case of Jovial's Einkorn Cookies, it may be less the fault of the wheat than the overall recipes used to produce the three cookie varieties now on the market.

The Ginger Spice were the best of the lot, and they tasted a great deal like a teething biscuit: dry and bland, with little spice kick and no perceptible ginger heat. If you happen to dig soothing, low-impact desserts that pair well with tea, you may dig these things, but traditional cookie fans may be disappointed.

The Checkerboard variety were nominally chocolate/vanilla but more closely approximated bland/boring. They had an austere flavor and dry texture, plus an odd, sushi nori–like aftertaste and not much sweetness; but like their Ginger Spice brethren, their firm texture could pair well with tea.

The Crispy Cocoa cookies were the worst of the lot, but this probably had something to do with fouled-up expectations. For example: You might expect some chocolate sweetness or cocoa richness from these cookies, but they just had a forgettable ricelike lightness to them.

From a nutrition perspective, these cookies are arguably a bit healthier than the competition, offering 3 grams of protein per serving compared to 1 gram for similar-calorie servings of Oreos, Nilla Wafers, and Pepperidge Farm Mint Milanos. That said, if nobody wants to eat them, the health advantages are a bit academic.

James Norton edits the Upper Midwestern food journal Heavy Table. He's also the coauthor of a book on Wisconsin's master cheesemakers. Follow Chowhound on Twitter, and become a fan on Facebook.

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