A Bread Master Takes On Pizza

Jim Lahey, the bread obsessive at Sullivan Street Bakery, has ventured into artisanal pizza at Co. Early word is highly promising. “He is making excellent Naples-style pizza,” kathryn says, “and challenging Una Pizza Napoletana (formerly my favorite)” with lower prices, more varied toppings, and a more spacious room. wileen also ranks Co. ahead of Una Pizza and on a par with Brooklyn favorite Franny’s.

kathryn describes a delicious, well-seasoned crust, not as light as Una Pizza Napoletana’s, but with a nice hole structure and a pleasing char on the bottom. Hound-endorsed combinations include the Ham and Cheese (pecorino, Gruyère, buffalo mozzarella, prosciutto, caraway), the Boscaiola (mushroom, pork sausage, buffalo mozzarella, tomato, red onion, chili), and the Popeye (spinach, Gruyère, pecorino, buffalo mozzarella, garlic, black pepper).

Open just a couple of weeks, Co. is already drawing hungry crowds to Chelsea, so be prepared to wait and don’t be surprised if some items are sold out. And keep in mind that timing and toppings are still being tweaked. J Greg reports an overloaded pie and limp spots in the crusts, but he’ll give the kitchen time: “We will certainly go back in a few weeks once they have been up and running for a bit.”

Co. [Chelsea]
230 Ninth Avenue (at West 24th Street), Manhattan

Board Link: Co. - new pizzeria place by Lahey open?

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