Snazzy New American at Bondir

Bondir, the new Cambridge spot by Beacon Hill Bistro alumnus Jason Bond, is so new the paint has barely dried on the mural outside the restaurant, but the first hound report is in, and it's good. There has been quite a bit of anticipation for Bondir, as Bond was much beloved at Beacon Hill, and Bondir's site was formerly occupied by two Portuguese restaurants, Atasca and Con Sol, noted for their comfy and rustic interiors. According to onecaketwocake, that snugness has remained: "very small and cozy." And there's a fireplace, nice for the winter evenings.

Dinner started with three varieties of house-baked bread, "hearty and crusty," says onecaketwocake, who liked the rosemary-chive best, but also mentions the bread with goose cracklings. That bread is served often, but the other two vary widely according to Bondir's online menu, which includes sour cherry–walnut bread, fennel seed bread, and nine-grain bread.

Bondir offers the options of half-sized entrées at half-price, so onecaketwocake had four between two people: lobster stock risotto with mussels, grits with roasted vegetables ("incredibly good"), lamb with stewed beans ("also incredible"), and a beef dish with a mole sauce that was slightly less successful. Prices for entrées range from $23 to $29, and since Bond is passionate about ingredient sourcing, the (usually local) source for each plate appears on the menu, a nice touch.

Desserts veer toward the savory, and the delightful. onecaketwocake's Jerusalem artichoke tart had well-browned sunchokes on a ginger cake, "really unusual dish and absolutely delicious."

"All in all I thought it was a lovely place, with really interesting and good food, and everyone was very warm," sums up onecake.

Bondir [Cambridge]
279-A Broadway, Cambridge
617-661-0009

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