Indian with a Light Touch at Seva

Indian food, made with an uncommonly light touch, is winning over hounds at Seva in Astoria. This three-month-old restaurant, which succeeded another Indian place that no one seems to miss, goes easy on the ghee, says ribbons. The resulting dishes are “fresh, non-greasy, and lighter than the usual,” writes Steve R.

But light doesn’t mean lite. Flavors are clear and robust—“delightfully distinguished from one another,” janie reports, “and not sauced into one undefined mess like I’ve had at so many other places.” billhill asked for chicken jalfrezi done spicy; “it was, and damn good.” Other good bets on the mostly northern menu include tandoori meats, green chile chicken, aloo gobi (potato-cauliflower curry), baghare baigan (baby eggplant in sesame-tamarind sauce), and, for dessert, an irresistible kheer (rice pudding).

Seva does the little things right, too, always a good sign. Hounds praise first-rate chutneys; naan and other breads made on the spot; and notably moist, tender basmati rice.

In other Indian news from Queens, the hound-endorsed Dosa Diner in Jackson Heights has given way to Dosa Place. But not to worry—it remains a hound-worthy spot for southern Indian chow. bigjeff singles out the rava masala dosa: “deliciously crispy, lacy, lots of nice herbs right in the batter.”

Seva [Astoria]
30-07 34th Street (at 30th Avenue), Astoria, Queens
718-626-4440

Dosa Place [Jackson Heights]
35-66 73rd Street (between 35th and 37th avenues), Jackson Heights, Queens
718-397-1000

Board Links: seva–good indian in astoria!
Dosa Place? (JH, old Dosa Diner spot)

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