Quince alum Chanan Kamen has opened Osteria Coppa in San Mateo, and it's a welcome addition, says pilinut. "The pizzas were good enough so that I won't feel compelled to drive up to Pizzeria Delfina every time I get a bad craving, though I still prefer Delfina's."
Chef Kamen was a pasta specialist at Quince, and pilinut says the agnolotti stuffed with butternut squash is excellent. Bigoli with borlotti beans and pancetta, on the other hand, is just "not bad." It's worth trying fritti such as fried artichokes and mixed seafood (squid, fish, shrimp, lemon, and fennel), which are crisp and tasty.
Osteria Coppa [Peninsula]
139 South B Street, San Mateo