I Paid: $3.29 for four 3.2-ounce pouches (prices may vary by region)
GoGo squeeZ is simple stuff: just mashed apples and apple juice concentrate, packed into a little sippy pouch with a rigid, strawlike drinking apparatus. (Think Fremen stillsuits from Dune meet Capri Sun.) But the French company that created it, Materne, has made two important tweaks.
First, the company has clad it in stripped-down packaging that is evocative of vintage Saul Bass, the modernist graphic designer who created the titles and poster for the movie Vertigo and the United Airlines logo. Little shadowy silhouetted apples with big eyes on a minimalist background create a slightly spooky yet enchanting look that’s deeply and proudly out of step with the overproduced garbage that dominates the world of modern American food service.
Second, by making the product so simple, Materne has created a pure, clean taste that is wholesomely delicious, and somehow more intensely apple-tasting than an actual apple. The only problem with the apple-on-apple purity and goodness is that it’s unlikely that just one pack of this applesauce will slake your hunger for the stuff.
Weird, gorgeous, tasty—three existential cheers for this defiantly Francophilic applesauce.