Uzbek Surprise in a Brooklyn Beer Bar

JFores wasn't expecting much from Kebeer. "I wrote it off as yet another Russian beer place," he confesses: a Brighton Beach watering hole shoveling out inauthentic grub, shamelessly overpriced. "I could not have been more wrong!"

What J found was surprisingly strong cooking, mostly Uzbek, highlighted by fantastic lagman (noodle soup) that easily eclipsed those at usual suspects Cheburechnaya and Cafe Kashkar. Draft beers are German, Belgian, and Czech, reasonably priced at $7 to $14 a liter. Samsa (baked meat pies) and chebureki (fried lamb dumplings) are well above average. So is the pilaflike plov, right on the mark in flavor if not texture. "And they have it every day," J adds, "unlike the dice roll that is Cafe Kashkar's menu."

Just a few blocks away, blehrer has discovered subtle and delicious Russian and Georgian food at Skovorodka. His terse report describes beautifully presented dishes and drinkable wine, affordably priced. "Among the best," blehrer promises.

Kebeer [Brighton Beach]
1003 Brighton Beach Avenue (near Coney Island Avenue), Brooklyn
718-934-9608

Skovorodka [Brighton Beach]
615 Brighton Beach Avenue (between Brighton Sixth and Seventh streets), Brooklyn
718-615-3096

Discuss: Kebeer in Brighton Beach
Great Great Russian/Caucasus

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