Frog’s Legs for the Kiddies?

Maybe it's not surprising that Lincoln's AKA Bistro is wowing the crowds; after all, the place has a pedigree. It's run by the former general manager and sushi chef of Clio. Word on the street is that the food is mind-boggling. The menu is divided in half; one featuring French classics, the other, sushi.

"I went and had the French items and what I had knocked me off my feet," says LBNova, a Lincoln local.

Sublime orders:

• Endive salad with bacon and a perfectly poached egg: "I think it must be one of the best items on the menu, although quite a simple choice," says LBNova.
• Coq au vin: "divine," says LBNova, and served in a pretty crock.
• Moules frites, with great-quality mussels and a well-balanced broth.
• Fois gras with a Sauterne gelée.
• Grilled split lobster on diced celery root with chanterelles and lobster bisque.
• Fatty toro, hamachi, and oysters from the sushi side of the menu: "all super fresh and served with amazing and surprising flavor combinations (including a new ingredient to me—wolfberries," says a surprised Trumpetguy).
• Duck confit with potatoes cooked in duck fat.

The room itself has a warm, comfy vibe, with a wraparound couch on the street side, cushy booths, and a sushi bar with a high-top table for those who want to eat sushi and run. It's a small room and still a bit bare, so the noise levels can get to be too much. But one particular fillip impressed all who saw it: Both frog's legs and escargots appear on the children's menu.

AKA Bistro [North of Boston]
145 Lincoln Road, Lincoln

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