A Montenegrin Sleeper in Astoria

The menu at Dino's ranges from pasta to pan-seared ahi, but Chowhounds are homing in on specialties from the Balkans, especially Montenegro, the chef's homeland. For starters, there's crnogorska, a Montenegrin salad of greens, tomato, and feta with a red wine vinaigrette. It's "awesome," says John_Keenan, "like the best Greek salad I've had in America." Pečenje (roasted veal with potato) is "nice and toothsome," he adds. jinglejangle goes for Cognac-flambéed ćevapi, sudžuk, and other house-made sausages. Beyond the Balkans, she recommends grouper with meunière sauce and tilapia with Dijon–white wine sauce.

This kitchen is on its game, John suggests: "There's a lot of craftsmanship—the bread is great, the butter and oil are first rate, everything is cooked well." And the chef-owner, Dino Redzic, is a personable fellow who might just comp you a house-made grappa. "Unfortunately the ambiance was nil since we were the ONLY ones in the place!" jinglejangle writes. "I really hope other hounders go check this place out and spread the word."

Dino's [Astoria]
29-35 Newtown Avenue (between 29th and 30th streets), Astoria, Queens
718-267-2771

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