Coppa Hits a Sweet Spot

After several months of missed opening dates, Coppa is in business at last in the South End, leading to boards posts speckled with visible drool. The restaurant is a joint venture between Ken Oringer (Clio) and Jamie Bissonnette (Toro), and it's making a big impression.

The kitchen rarely hits a sour note. Highlights among the pastas include cavatelli with chicken sausage ("perfectly executed," says barleywino), calves' brain ravioli and brown butter ("ultra rich melt-in-your-mouth"), and the spaghetti carbonara with uni and farm egg ("with firm toothsome noodles, not gluey like some places").

Fish is also strong, with several hounds lauding pesce al mattone (literally "fish under a brick"), which is seared fresh local cod with capers. Vegetables like Brussels sprouts are worthy sides: "I love it when a chef pays attention to vegetables and makes you sit up and enjoy them," says BostonZest.

Prices are very reasonable, particularly for the area, with generous portions and no dishes over $15.

Coppa [South End]
253 Shawmut Avenue, Boston
617-391-0902

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