In a Changing Staten Island, Refined Turkish

The Turkish food at Seaside is quite good and a notch more refined than average, BMartin suggests. Adana kebabs of hand-chopped lamb are a standout, as is a hot appetizer platter of falafel, grilled liver, fried calamari, and lamb-stuffed phyllo "cigars." "So good food. A little expensive," BMartin concludes. Flaco likes the lamb shawarma and Turkish bread, fresh out of an oven that also turns out pizza and calzones. "No complaints at all," he writes, "with some very nice touches."

Seaside replaced an old-timers' bar near the boardwalk in Staten Island's South Beach, and its uncertain pedigree speaks to a changing borough. BMartin hears Turkish music and Russian conversation in the air. Flaco describes the owners as "'Russian,' which could mean anything in South Beach, with kitchen staff ranging from Albania to Puebla." The Turkish beer Efes is on tap, he observes, "so someone is really trying to keep the Ottomans happy."

Seaside [Staten Island]
124 Ocean Avenue (near Robin Road), Staten Island
718-727-9000

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