Lord Hobo: Worth the Wait?

Lord Hobo, the Cambridge place that was in the works for so long that it spawned its own prank domain, is open at last. The hounds have duly visited and spoken.

The drinks are the main things making them drool. The beer list is a wonderland of hard-to-find Belgians and IPAs, with 40 beers on draft, priced between $6 and $10. Waiters are ready to guide your selection, but the menu could use more description, as only beer geeks will be able to identify some of the brands. Samples are freely offered, however. Cocktails are, as jajjguy puts it, "very good and possibly excellent": try the Wall St. (wheat whiskey, Lillet Rouge, and orange bitters) or the Rambler (rye, vermouth, amaro, and maraschino).

On the food side, the fries have won many a convert; they come in curried and truffled versions. The charcuterie plate and the deviled eggs (three on a plate with avocado, truffle, or chile fillings), are also worthy beer companions.

Mains include lobster mac ’n' cheese and shepherd's pie, and are expensive ($17 to $26), good, but heavy. Even the salads—one with duck confit, the other with lardons and cheese—aren't exactly light, zebedee points out. Kind of a gut-bomb of a selection, really. But the lines out the door speak loudly of a target hit.

Lord Hobo [Cambridge]
92 Hampshire Street, Cambridge
617-250-8454

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