Sweetness and Soy at Kyotofu

Kyotofu transforms Japanese staples and seasonings into elegantly wrought sweets. There’s delicate, gingery rice porridge. These folks really love their soy products: There’s soy magicked into every form of sweet. There’s dense, warm chocolate with rich miso filling; sublime black-sesame tofu; subtley nutty tofu cheesecake with a bit of peppery sansho.

It’s all fantastic and unique, says kathryn, who loves the attention to detail evident in the well-chosen accompaniments on each plate, e.g., candied ginger, sour cherries, a seven-spice tuile. She recommends the $15 dessert kaiseki, which showcases much of the menu. It comprises an opening sweet, a sampler of three or four desserts, and petits fours—usually sweet, soft cookies made from okara, the soy bran left over after tofu is made.

Kyotofu, whose New York shop is the first stateside outpost of a chain from Kyoto, also offers a strong sake selection plus original cocktails like the Shibuya martini: shochu, guava, and muddled ginger. In addition, there’s a short menu of savory dishes, mostly ignored by sweet-toothed hounds. But the tofu-chicken meatballs are quite good, jsgjewels says.

Kyotofu [Clinton]
705 Ninth Avenue (between W. 48th and 49th streets), Manhattan
212-974-6012
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